The highlight of the Sun Ribbon Arete is a Tyrolean traverse about half way up the route. The climbing on the lower half of the route eventually leads to the top of a tower, on the other side of which climbers encounter an impassable gap in the ridge. The easiest way across the gap is to lasso a horn on the other side and slide across with nothing but air below you.

Looking back at the top of the tower after having made the Tyrolean traverse.

In the middle of the Tyrolean traverse. Check out the exposure!

The crux pitch of the Sun Ribbon route climbs a steep three inch crack followed by a face climbing traverse to the right and tough move over a bulge to the belay.

Starting the wide crack on the crux pitch

Mount Conness, West Ridge (Grade III, 5.6, 12-14 pitches)

Mount Conness sits on the edge of the Tuolumne meadows area and is just outside of Yosemite National Park making it available for guided parties. Conness is home to three classic Sierra routes, two moderate classics, the West Ridge and the North Ridge, and one big wall, the Southwest Face. The two ridge climbs are both 5.6 and the SW Face is a Grade V, 5.10c.

A view of the massive SW Face of Mount Conness. The West Ridge is the left hand skyline.

The ridge climbs on Conness are both considered classics, and the climbing genrally involves low angle climbing on exposed ridges with excellent cracks and features for holds. They are long climbs requiring quick movement to complete in a reasonable day.

Typical climbing on Mount Conness. Perfect granite with excellent cracks.

It is hard to pinpoint a crux of this route because the climbing is quite consistent, but the most memorable pitch is one that starts with a thin finger crack and leads to a small roof which is surmountable via a perfect handcrack.

Starting a thin crack pitch high on the ridge.

Looking back down the length of the ridge.

From the summit of Mount Conness, one can see most of the spectacular Tuolumne Meadows area and all the way down to Yosemite Valley. The Sierra dome country is some of the most scenic and beautiful high country in the world.

A view across the Tuolumne Meadows Peaks and into Yosemite Valley. Half Dome is visble on the far right. Cathedral Peak, the Mathes Crest and the Meadows are in the middle of the picture.

On the descent from the summit of Conness you encounter a group of weathered boulders that look quite a bit like parts of Joshua Tree or the Buttermilk boulders near Bishop, CA. If anyone ever gets the urge to carry a crash pad and bouldering equipment six miles to the top of Conness, we are sure there is lots of alpine bouldering potential here!

Stopping for a quick alpine bouldering break on the descent from Mount Conness.

The Echo Peaks outside of Tuolumne.

So the weather isn't always perfect in the Sierra, but fortunately the storms move quickly and can create some beautiful sunsets.

Join us next summer for some warm weather alpine climbing in the Sierra, or climb with us this winter if you are interested in winter mountaineering, ice climbing, or backcountry skiing.

American Alpine Instute's Sierra Programs
Summer Programs and Climbs
Winter Programs and Ice Climbing
Climbs on Mount Whitney