In this article, I'll share some of the tips, ideas, and philosophies that I have informally come across in my half-a-dozen odd years of alpine climbing. My hope is to spur some creative thought if you are aspiring to work towards bigger and harder alpine climbs. A great deal of preparation and physical output in the days and months leading up to your climb is absolutely necessary if you hope to do well, be safe, and have fun in the mountains. Read the full article.

Picture sunny rock climbing in Red Rock, Nevada or Joshua Tree, California. . . or front-pointing your way up pristine, frozen waterfalls in Colorado's Ouray Ice Park or the Eastern Sierra . . . or perhaps reaching the summit of Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere. Whatever your poison, our variety of fall and winter programs are guaranteed to stave off even the worst case of cabin fever.

Red Rock Canyon, Nevada: Winter climbing doesn't have to mean snow and low temperatures! Come work on your tan while climbing beautiful sandstone in Red Rock Canyon, located only 45 minutes from Las Vegas. All experience levels welcome.

Joshua Tree, California: Experience the pleasant climate and premium-quality granite of this 4000-foot high desert climber's paradise! All experience levels welcome.

South America Expeditions:

• Aconcagua Expedition - Climb to the summit of the Western Hemisphere!
• Ecuador High Altitude Expedition - Travel with us among the culture-rich towns of Quito and Otavalo and climb "The Big Three" volcanoes of Ecuador: Cayambe, Cotopaxi, Chimorazo.
• Ecuador Illiniza and Antisana Expedition - Make ascents on two of the world's most prized equatorial alpine climbs in just ten days.
• Patagonia Ice Cap Expedition - Traverse a portion of the immense ice cap of southern Patagonian, one of the least explored mountain areas in the world, and ascend Cerro Marconi Sur and Gorra Blanca.
• Patagonia Trekking and Climbing: Torres del Paine - Close-up views of the towers and visits to impressive alpine cirques.
• Patagonia Trekking and Climbing: Fitzroy and Cerro Torre - Climb a couple of moderate peaks in spectacular positions near the biggest peaks or trek only in this land of giant towers, sweeping glaciers, and beautiful beach forests.

Ice Climbing, Backcountry Skiing, Winter Mountaineering

• Waterfall Ice Climbing - Whether a beginner or a seasoned ice climber, get your fix in either Colorado's San Juan mountains or California's Eastern Sierra.
• Winter Mountaineering Comprehensive Course, Denali Prep - Gain a complete repertoire of winter backcountry and climbing skills and become prepared to apply those skills in an expeditionary context, such as on Denali. (Colorado, California, or Washington)
• Backcountry Skiing - Advance your backcountry skiing technique, route finding abilities, and skills for avalanche hazard assessment, all while experiencing some of the finest ski touring found in North America. (Colorado, California, or Washington)

• Offer A: Sign up for any course or expedition with us by October 15, 2006 and receive 25% off any two equipment purchases in our gear shop (available online).
• Offer B: Sign up for a day or more of rock climbing in Red Rock, Nevada by October 15, 2006 and receive 10% off your total tuition.
• Offer C: Register for any South America expedition by October 15, 2006 and receive $100 off your tuition! (See above Program Highlights for a list of expeditions.)

To receive your chosen offer, you must mention code EN906 when registering for your course or expedition.

Fine Print: Offer expires October 15, 2006. Only one of the three offers per person. Cannot be combined with other discounts and promotions.

Check out our other special offers, including our year round Ring Leader Discount, Second Summits Program, and our Green Energy Discount!

For advice on other gear, browse the Guides Choice web site. We feature weekly specials on a handful of items at substantial discounts. The clothing and equipment that is on sale changes every Tuesday, so check back each week. You'll find great items on clearance, and we are regularly adding products, photos, and testing notes.

ASK A GUIDE: Your questions answered by Michael Powers

CAUTION: Mountain travel of any kind carries significant risks to the participants, and travel on rock, snow, and ice carries inherent dangers that can lead to injury or death. Every situation is unique and calls for use of different techniques. The choice of techniques must be made in the context and location where they will be applied, and that choice requires a subjective assessment by the person on the scene. Therefore, AAI assumes no responsibility or liability for your use of the suggestions offered in this article or by guides and staff. AAI offers tips to assist climbers to expand their skills, but makes no assertion regarding the appropriateness of choosing a particular technique in any given circumstance. You must make your own assessments and decisions, and you assume all risks in applying these techniques, whether those risks are from subjective or objective dangers.

Question:

Recently I have run into more than a few anchors in sport routes that were solid, yet placed on ledges that made for a lot of rope drag when top roping. Needless to say, I always want to extend them. Is it appropriate to use a figure-8 on a bight at both ends of one inch webbing to extend the anchor? I have used two pieces of webbing with two opposed locking biners in the lower loops as the master point. I am hesitant to use water knots as they can slip, and require twice the length of webbing. What do you suggest?

Additionally, have you seen anybody using locking biners on the side of a quickdraw where the rope is placed?

Thanks!

Josh Cohen,
Phoenix, AZ

Dear Josh:

I think it's fine to extend the anchors with figure-8s on a bight, although it can take a bit of fidgeting to get the length exactly right and keep the anchors equalized. Another way to do this is to use a cordelette (20-30 feet of 7 mil diameter cord) to extend the anchor. I tie the cordelette into a loop with a double fisherman's knot (with 4-6" tail), and then construct the cordelette into a pre or self-equalized extension using regular biners at the bolts (or individual pro). Then, working downward, I tie an overhand or figure eight knot in the cordelette to make a powerpoint, then clip two locking biners below the knot and run the top rope through them (making sure to lock them, of course). Read Mike's full response.

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Question:

What is a good length for a cordelette in an alpine rack?

Also, is there a good place to have trip plans validated or an online place or guidebook series that includes them? Being a new climber, I would like to be double checked for the first few plans I make.

Thank you,

Jeff Langton
Woodinville, WA

Dear Jeff:

I personally like cordelettes for alpine racks to be 12-15 feet long, which is about 3-5 feet shorter than the typical cordelette found on most rock racks. One way to determine a good length is to coil the loop in half - and then half again - so that the four individual loops are all the same length. The coiled loops together should be the same length as a single shoulder-length sling and should fit over one should in the same manner. This also makes for a quick and easy way to carry the cordelette. Another great way is to take those four strands and tie them into an overhand knot, then clip the tidy bundle onto your harness. Read Mike's full response.

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Read Ask A Guide questions from previous editions of AAI's E-newsletter.

Thank you for your submissions! To submit questions for Ask A Guide, please email us at askaguide@aai.cc (electronic submissions only).

The Ask A Guide was created to answer your most pressing climbing related questions. Michael Powers, AAI Senior Guide and our Assistant Director for Staff Development, answers all questions. Michael oversees field staff hiring, training, and continuing education, and serves as an instructor in mountaineering, ice, rock, and skiing. He is IFMGA certified, serves as an instructor and examiner for the AMGA's National Guide Certification Program, and is a former Technical Director of the AMGA.

THE CLIMBERS PATH PHOTO CONTEST: Vote for your favorite photo today!

Last issue, we invited our E-newsletter readers to submit their best mountain photos for our September Climber's Path Photo Contest. We received many wonderful entries and have selected fifteen finalists. Now it is up to you, the reader, to vote on the winner. Check out the entries at www.aai.cc/photocontest.asp and place your votes today!

Whether you're an aspiring Ansel Adams or a devoted fan of the point-and-shoot, send us your best mountain photos and you will have a chance at winning a a $100 (1st place), $50 (2nd place), or $25 (3rdplace) gift certificate, applicable towards either AAI's online gear store or towards the tuition of a mountaineering course, private climbing trip, or expedition. You can vote for multiple photos from a single entrant, but each entrant is eligible to win only one prize. In addition, the winner's photo will appear in the next issue of this newsletter. So send your photos in! It only takes a few seconds to email them to climberspath@aai.cc, and it may be well worth the effort! Electronic submissions only. The act of submission constitutes your consent for AAI to publish your photo(s).