The Helen Keller quote reminds me that life's best choices are neither avoiding risk nor living life with total abandon. In contrast to both of those - in climbing, just like in life - confronting risks or dangers with intelligence and good judgement can result in personal growth and bring tremendous sense of accomplishment. You could say, security ends up being a by-product of the good choices we make. Most importantly, the process of confronting those challenges, greatly broadens and enriches our lives.

      And with regard to rich experiences, here at AAI we are excited to bring a new year of climbing adventure to you in six states and sixteen countries. I guarantee your climbs with AAI will enrich your life.

      For some inspiration, check out our feature article - an interview with AAI guide Dawn Glanc. Dawn climbed over 200 days in 2005, 50 of those days were spent climbing waterfall ice, a unique and especially challenging medium. Then read on for special newsletter-subscriber-only discounts for Sierra programs, as well as a special newsletter sale on avalanche equipment. Also enjoy the winning image by Holly Gager from last month's photo contest. Coley Gentzel, our master (not jack!) of all trades and a seasoned alpinist, shares his glove system secrets. And, Michael Powers responds to your climbing questions in Ask a Guide.

      We appreciate your interest in the American Alpine Institute, and we are glad to have you with us.

Dunham Gooding, Director

WHAT'S INSIDE
• Feature Article: Perspectives on water ice, mountain guiding, and women and climbing: An
       interview with accomplished climber and AAI guide, Dawn Glanc
• Program Highlights: California's spectacular Eastern Sierra
• Special Offer: Save 15% off 2006 Sierra climbs and 10% off 2006 ice climbing trips!
• AAI Insider
- Expert Tip: Glove Systems for Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing: A seasoned alpinist
        shares his secrets
- Guide's Choice: Avalanche gear packages and ice screws
- Ask a Guide: Your questions answered by Michael Powers
- The Climber's Path Photo Contest: Winner announced, and call for new submissions

		Feature Article: Perspectives on water ice, mountain guiding, and women and climbing: An interview with accomplished climber and AAI guide, Dawn Glanc Dawn Glanc (pronounced "glance") climbed over 200 days in 2005, 50 of those days were spent climbing water ice. To learn more about how Dawn got into climbing, what it's like working in the male dominated field of mountain guiding, and read a great definition of what it means to be a hero, click here.
		Program Highlights: California's Eastern Sierra What John Muir called "the most divinely beautiful of all the mountain ranges" still holds the same allure and beauty in the eyes of many modern climbers. Whether you are drawn to ascents on pure rock, snow, or ice, or those media in combination, the potential for climbing in the area is great. The American Alpine Institute offers a full range of programs and guided ascents in the sunny and remarkably diverse Sierra. We climb and teach on Mt. Whitney (14,494'), the highest peak in the lower 48, as well as scores of other routes and peaks. Check out our Sierra programs: Rock climbing: Alpine and lowland Water ice climbing Mountaineering: Intro and leadership courses Denali prep Custom guided ascents: Snow, ice, and rock Backcountry skiing
		Mt. Rainier 2006! AAI is now accepting applications for 2006 Mt. Rainier climbs and prep courses. Slots on Rainier climbs are limited and fill up fast, so pull out the calendar! 2006 departures: June 6, June 26, July 24, and August 14.
		AAI winter fun rages on: Winter mountaineering and South American expeditions Water ice climbing and backcountry skiing in Ouray, CO; the Eastern Sierra, or Banff/Lake Louise Rock climbing in the winter sun at Red Rock, NV or Joshua Tree, CA Avalanche Level 1 and Level 2 programs in the Mt. Baker, Washington backcountry, location of the world's highest recorded annual snowfall (1140 inches)! Read climbing dispatches from expeditions currently underway around the world.

		E-newsletter Special Offers As a thank you for your interest in the American Alpine Institute's E-newsletter, each issue contains special offers available only to subscribers like you. Sierra winter, spring, and summer programs Save 15% Save 15% by signing up now for any 2006 water ice climbing, winter mountaineering, backcountry skiing, rock climbing, or mountaineering course in the Sierra. Plus, by signing up you'll also receive a 15% discount for clothing and equipment purchased through our gear shop. You must enroll by February 15, 2006 and mention code EN106 to take advantage of this special offer. Water ice climbing Save 10% We're also offering 10% off on 2006 water ice climbing programs in Ouray or Banff/Lake Louise. Offer expires February 15, 2006. Be sure to mention code EN106 when registering. Check our additional E-newsletter Special Offers, as well as our ongoing Special Offers. And remember, AAI gift certificates for trips and gear make ideal presents and are available year round.

EXPERT TIPS Glove Systems for Mountaineering and Alpine Climbing: A seasoned alpinist shares his secrets Coley Gentzel, AAI staffer and dedicated Alaska Range climber, took time from his winter schedule to share his best glove tips. Here is a sample: "There are some hard and fast 'rules of thumb' when it comes to keeping your hands warm: one pair of gloves or liners is never enough - your gloves will get wet, and they will fall apart, probably sooner than you think. Planning your system properly can save your hands, if not your life." Read on for one of the best treatises on glove selection ever written. GUIDES CHOICE: Avalanche Safety Gear & Ice Screws Guides Choice is an independent, international gear evaluation program started by the American Alpine Institute in 1989. Our professional mountain guides are continually field-testing equipment and clothing in a variety of mountain environments and conditions. Guides Choice awards are given to the top item of gear in each product category based on excellence in design, performance, and durability. Each year new Guides Choice awards are presented to manufacturers at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market trade show in Salt Lake City. View the list of 2005 award recipients. ALL AVALANCHE GEAR 10% - 20% OFF! Full Package Discount Ready to head into the backcountry but still need the essentials? Purchase a full package (shovel, probe, and transceiver) and receive 15% off each item. Plus, receive an extra 5% off if you sign up for a Level 1 or Level 2 avalanche course at the same time, a total gear discount of 20%. Individual Item Discount If you purchase individual items, you'll get 10% off that item. You can still receive an extra 5% off if you sign up for a Level 1 or Level 2 avalanche course at the same time, a total gear discount of 15%. Keep yourself as safe as possible out-of-bounds by visiting our online gear shop and browsing through our collection of avalanche equipment. This E-newsletter special offer expires February 15, 2006. BLACK DIAMOND TURBO EXPRESS ICE SCREW - 10% OFF! One of our Guides Choice award winners, the Turbo Express Ice Screw is the fastest placing screw in the Black Diamond line. With a patented taper at the tip and a retractable knob, its needle-like teeth grab and bite in any ice condition. The folding knob allows you to sink it with speed and because it is retractable, it won't snag ropes and biners. Sizes Available: 10cm, 13cm, 16cm, 19cm, 22cm This E-newsletter special offer expires February 15, 2006. For advice on other gear, browse the Guides Choice web site. We feature weekly specials on a handful of items at substantial discounts. The clothing and equipment on sale changes every Tuesday so check back each week. You'll find great items on clearance, and we are regularly adding products, photos, and testing notes. ASK A GUIDE The Ask A Guide column was created to answer your most pressing climbing related questions. Michael Powers, AAI Senior Guide and our Assistant Director for Staff Development, answers all questions. Michael oversees field staff hiring, training, and continuing education, and serves as an instructor in mountaineering, ice, rock, and skiing. He is IFMGA certified, serves as an instructor and examiner for the AMGA's National Guide Certification Program, and is a former Technical Director of the AMGA. CAUTION: Mountain travel of any kind carries significant risks to the participants, and travel on rock, snow, and ice carries inherent dangers that can lead to injury or death. Every situation is unique and calls for use of different techniques. The choice of techniques must be made in the context and location where they will be applied, and that choice requires a subjective assessment by the person on the scene. Therefore, AAI assumes no responsibility or liability for your use of the suggestions offered in this article or by guides and staff. AAI offers tips to assist climbers to expand their skills, but makes no assertion regarding the appropriateness of choosing a particular technique in any given circumstance. You must make your own assessments and decisions, and you assume all risks in applying these techniques, whether those risks are from subjective or objective dangers. Question: I am wondering about snow caves verses a good four-season tent; is one a better shelter than the other? Also, I'm looking for three additional recommendations from you. If you took me into a gear store and I needed the following three items to survive and enjoy a high mountain climbing excursion, what would I come out with? 1) the best winter mountaineering boots; 2) the best 4-season tent; 3) the best below zero sleeping bag. Thomas Bourgeois, Trego, MT Dear Thomas: First of all, a tent is more versatile than a snow cave since you need sufficient snow pack (depth of snow and the right consistency) to build a snow cave. In contrast, a tent can be pitched most anywhere. The biggest disadvantage is the weight of the tent since a snow cave is built "on location" and isn't carried. A snow cave can be warm and quite comfortable but it does require a few hours of work, and the builder gets wet during the construction. Read on for Michael's full response. Michael Powers Question: Is there a technique for rope-soloing that offers a reasonable margin for safety, or is rope-soloing strictly for suicidal idiots? Also, I've noticed there are soloist belay devices on the market. Do they work with any degree of reliability and are there any such devices that would be appropriate for alpine conditions? James Carr, Menlo Park, CA Dear James: Thanks for your question on rope-soloing and the opportunity to provide some feedback on a facet of climbing that contains some confusion, misconceptions, and poorly understood practices. It's quite common for both new and experienced climbers to explore and dabble in rope-soloing. However, it quickly becomes more like aid climbing, which requires a whole new set of skills quite different from the normal physical and mental aspects of traditional climbs with partners and their belay systems. Solo climbers must incorporate these new aid skills in addition to their broader, general knowledge of rope systems and protection techniques. Read on for Michael's full response. Michael Powers Read additional Ask A Guide questions from previous editions of AAI's E-newsletter. Thank you for your submissions! To submit questions for Ask A Guide, please email us at askaguide@aai.cc (electronic submissions only). THE CLIMBERS PATH PHOTO CONTEST Winner announced and new contest begins today! Congratulations to Holly Gager, winner of AAI's December 2005 Photo Contest, and winner of a $25 gift certificate to AAI's online gear store. Holly's winning photo: "View from Black Rapids Glacier - Alaska" by Holly Gager Announcing AAI's February 2006 Photo Contest! We want to see your most stunning or otherwise remarkable photos! Submissions will be voted on by readers of AAI's February E-newsletter and the winner will be announced in the March issue. The top vote getter will be awarded a $25 gift certificate that can be redeemed at our online gear store. You can submit more than one image, however, AAI staff reserves the right to choose photos that will be part of the competition and only one image per individual will be included in the contest. Submissions due by February 5th! To enter, email your electronic photos to climberspath@aai.cc. Electronic submissions only. We are also looking for trip reports, short stories, and climbing articles of interest to share with the thousands of readers in our E-newsletter community and with visitors to our web site. Send your materials to climberspath@aai.cc.

Founded in 1975, the American Alpine Institute is dedicated to helping beginning and experienced climbers improve their skills and safely gain access to the great mountains of the world while protecting the environment. We offer AMGA accredited instructional courses, guided trips, and expeditions throughout the year in 6 states and 16 countries.

Read past issues of AAI's E-newsletter.

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