If you are new to climbing, consider a course or guided climb in California's Eastern Sierra or in Washington's North Cascades. Both ranges provide ideal terrain and conditions to build your skills for achieving future climbing goals, and we're offering a savings of 10% (to a maximum of $200) on courses in these locations if you sign up before March 31, 2006. If you're an experienced climber, check out our range of programs below. And, if you don't see what you're looking for, by all means, please contact us at 800-424-2249 or info@aai.cc.

AAI Denali climber promotes fitness, the outdoors, and the Cincinnati Nature Center
Showing a great sense of humor and dedication to a cause, Cincinnati resident Bill Hopple (pictured left) is climbing to the summit of the seven tallest buildings and the seven tallest hills in his hometown. It is all part of a plan to promote fitness and train for his Denali climb with AAI later this year. His Cincinnati-area summits are intended to get more people reconnected to the outdoors and healthy lifestyles while learning more about the Cincinnati Nature Center (CNC), a non-profit environmental education organization. Bill is CNC's Executive Director, and his Denali training is helping raise awareness about the organization through a program called Hike for Your Health. Bill explains, "We believe people, especially children, need to reconnect with the natural world to live healthy, productive lives. Hiking is a simple way for people of varying ability levels to stay physically and emotionally fit while exploring nature. As I train to climb Denali, I plan to take the Hike for your Health message into the community."

AAI is donating a 6-day Intro to Alpinism course to CNC's Hike for Your Health drawing. Information on AAI Denali climbs.

Red Rock Rendezvous benefits the sport of climbing
March 24 - 26
In a few short weeks, the annual Red Rock Rendezvous begins. Spring Mountain Ranch State Park (inside the Red Rock Conservation Area) 30 minutes from Las Vegas serves as the venue for this annual climbing event and fundraiser that takes place March 24 - 26. American Alpine Institute guides serve as climbing instructors for the event, offering clinics, narrating slide shows, and helping answer visitor questions. If you're planning to be in the Las Vegas area, check out the rendezvous, and be sure to stop by our exhibit table to learn more about AAI.

Paul Fish, founder of Mountain Gear, a Spokane-based adventure clothing and gear retailer, created the Rendezvous. This year proceeds will benefit The Access Fund, The American Alpine Club, the American Safe Climbing Association, and the Las Vegas Climbers Council. AAI is donating an instructional course in the North Cascades for the auction fundraiser.

And, check our Special Offers for the general public.
AAI gift certificates for trips and gear make ideal presents and are available year round.

Guides Choice is an independent, international gear evaluation program started by the American Alpine Institute in 1989. Our professional mountain guides are continually field-testing equipment and clothing in a variety of mountain environments and conditions. Guides Choice awards are given to the top item of gear in each product category based on excellence in design, performance, and durability. Each year new Guides Choice awards are presented to manufacturers at the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market trade show in Salt Lake City. View the list of 2005 award recipients.

Early Bird Denali Gear Grab Sale: 20-65% OFF! Stroll into base camp with style this year. Check out our early season deals for Denali gear. Prices will be so light on the wallet you'll practically float up the mountain. Climb High Red Hot Overboots 35% off Mountain Hardwear Chugach Pants 20% off Black Diamond Guide Gloves 25% off Black Diamond Mercury Mitts 25% off Koflach Arctis Expe Boots 25% off Surviving Denali (the book) 20% off Valandre Oural Mitts 50% off Valandre Odin Down Booties 50% off Manzella Windstopper Balaclavas 65% off Manzella Power Dry Liner Glove 65% off Manzella Wind Pro Glove 65% off Beko Nose Guard 20% off Gregory Denali Pro Backpack 20% off Forty Below K2 Overboots 20% off Outdoor Research Alti Mitts 20% off Outdoor Research Water Bottle Parka 20% off

For advice on other gear, browse the Guides Choice web site. We feature weekly specials on a handful of items at substantial discounts. The clothing and equipment on sale changes every Tuesday so check back each week. You'll find great items on clearance, and we are regularly adding products, photos, and testing notes.

ASK A GUIDE: Simul-climbing and Rope Selection

CAUTION: Mountain travel of any kind carries significant risks to the participants, and travel on rock, snow, and ice carries inherent dangers that can lead to injury or death. Every situation is unique and calls for use of different techniques. The choice of techniques must be made in the context and location where they will be applied, and that choice requires a subjective assessment by the person on the scene. Therefore, AAI assumes no responsibility or liability for your use of the suggestions offered in this article or by guides and staff. AAI offers tips to assist climbers to expand their skills, but makes no assertion regarding the appropriateness of choosing a particular technique in any given circumstance. You must make your own assessments and decisions, and you assume all risks in applying these techniques, whether those risks are from subjective or objective dangers.

Question:
I have read that using an occasional tibloc or gibbs ascender on anchors while simul-climbing will keep the load from a falling second from pulling off the leader. This solution may be more of a problem than the one it was attempting to solve as these devices are not recommended to hold a fall. Please share any experience or ideas on how a prussik or other friction knot may be used in this scenario.

Greg Rossell
Durango, CO

Dear Greg:
Yes, a tibloc (or similar) will prevent the second climber from pulling the leader off. The disadvantage is the stress they put on the rope (they can shear the sheath off the rope or worse). However, this is preferable to pulling the leader off their lead. So, in this sense it can be acceptable if the alternative to a damaged rope is a protected leader. Realistically, when this type of protection is used, falls rarely happen and the use of the tibloc is more of a "psychological pro" that, perhaps in limited certain situations, is sufficient. Read on for Michael's full response.

Michael Powers

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Question:
I am looking at ropes for alpine glacier and couloir routes in the western mountain ranges and have had discussions on rope diameter, strength, weight, and length issues, not to mention brand quality and durability. I have heard of systems using a 30 meter dynamic rope with the lead and tail packing a 20 meter static or dynamic rope for rescue for a group of three or more. With this argument I have heard many climbers are moving away from the standard 50 meter rope. As for diameter, I have heard thoughts ranging from using 7.5 mm ropes to 9.5 mm ropes for average glacier and alpine travel. Personally, I would like to go with as small of a diameter as possible but hold on to length and be secure in a rope's ability to hold a fall. What has worked best in your experience? Thanks for your time and response.

Brian Boggs
Boise, ID

Dear Brian:
I frequently use 30 meter ropes - or even shorter - for some glaciated routes in the North Cascades. If I am planning to move together with my partners on the route (glacier travel mode, simul-climbing, or running belays), and if I think there will be little chance of doing any rappelling, then a 30 meter rope works great. I still like it to be a singe rope - and they now come in diameters as small as 9 mm. Many climbers use a "half rope" (typically 8-8.8 mm) in this application, but there are some disadvantages to the narrow diameter, particularly in rescue and hauling situations and if a leader fall is a possibility. Read on for Michael's full response.

Michael Powers

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Read additional Ask A Guide questions from previous editions of AAI's E-newsletter.

Thank you for your submissions! To submit questions for Ask A Guide, please email us at askaguide@aai.cc (electronic submissions only).

The Ask A Guide column was created to answer your most pressing climbing related questions. Michael Powers, AAI Senior Guide and our Assistant Director for Staff Development, answers all questions. Michael oversees field staff hiring, training, and continuing education, and serves as an instructor in mountaineering, ice, rock, and skiing. He is IFMGA certified, serves as an instructor and examiner for the AMGA's National Guide Certification Program, and is a former Technical Director of the AMGA.

THE CLIMBERS PATH PHOTO CONTEST: Vote today!

Voting has just begun on AAI's March Photo Contest! To view the entries and place your vote, click here.

The contest winner will receive a $50 gift certificate to AAI's online gear store and the winning photo will appear in the next issue of this newsletter. Thank you to everyone who submitted photos.

Our next photo contest will be in early summer with a deadline for submissions May 15. We are always looking for photos, trip reports, short stories, and climbing articles of interest to share with the thousands of readers in our E-newsletter community and with visitors to our web site. Send your materials to climberspath@aai.cc. Electronic submissions only.

Thank you for joining us. We look forward to seeing you in the mountains!