Denali - West Buttress: June 3-23, 2007

Guides: Gary Keuhn, Coley Gentzel, Alasdair Turner
Climbers: Martin Enright, Ray Aderholt, Gulnur Tumbat, Jamie Garis, Jim Lederer, Peter Weidler, Will Baumann, Don Mann, Jen Larsen

Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition:

Dispatch #1: June 4, 2007

Great news - Team 5 is underway, and on time! We received three messages from Team 5 guides over the weekend:

Saturday, 7:50pm - Guide Alasdair Turner said, "Here is a photo from Talkeetna of the sunset on the mountain last night. The weather is good now, but it looks questionable for the next few days. All the team gear is ready, and we will be meeting in a half hour to begin the gear check. Tomorrow we will travel to Talkeetna, and then hopefully be given a weather break to fly into the mountain. If we do get in, it will be a very long day since warm weather and less than perfect conditions on the glacier mean we will be traveling at night. We hope to make our push to Camp 1 tomorrow night."

Dispatch #2: Sunday, 3:10pm - Guide Coley Gentzel said, "Hello, this is Team 5, calling from the airstrip in Talkeetna. We just finished an incredible pizza lunch and festive get together with the pilots and staff at K2 [the glacier flight service]. It's a fairly sunny afternoon, and we're hoping to fly onto the glacier today, though we're still waiting to find out if this is possible. Flights haven't been going out at all today to the Kahiltna, but the weather is clearing and as of now we are staged, ready, and standing by."

Dispatch #3: Sunday 9pm - "Hi again, this is Coley calling with Team 5. I am pleased to say that we successfully made it to Denali Base Camp! We made the best of a small weather window and all got to camp safe and sound. Right now the clouds are parting on the Kahiltna; it looks windy up high, but is peaceful and gorgeous down here. We're all nestled in and are cooking dinner as we speak. We hope to get about an hour of rest after dinner, then plan on starting the climb up to Camp 1 at midnight. All in all, we're happy to have made it to Base Camp on time!"

Coley also passed on the message from Gulnar Tumbat and the rest of the team: "Hello to loved ones!"

Dispatch #4: June 4, 2007

Guide Coley Gentzel called today at 5pm from Camp 1! He said the team did very well getting from Base Camp to Camp 1, leaving at 12:30am and getting in at 5am (4.5 hours is a really fast time for this section!). The team is officially on a night schedule, due to the condition of the glacier and the need to travel when it's cooler and conditions are more frozen and stable. "Everyone is pretty nackered after our big push," Coley said, "but we have an exceptionally strong team and are a day ahead of schedule."

The team is planning on eating a burrito dinner tonight at 7pm, then resting before making another night push to put in their cache at 10,500 feet.

The weather has been a little snowy, though there has been no accumulation. Coley said that the cloud ceiling is high so more teams have been able to fly into Base Camp today.

Dispatch #5: June 6, 2007

Guide Alasdair Turner called last night at 6pm with the news that Team 5 had a successful carry to 10,000 feet this morning to put their cache in. He said, "When we started out this morning, the weather was pretty bad with close to zero visibility. However, when we got up to our cache site the weather cleared, and we had lunch in beautiful weather then headed down in hot sun. We're now all resting and are about to have dinner. Tomorrow morning we plan to head up to Camp 2. That's it for now - hopefully the weather holds!"

Dispatch #6: June 6, 2007

Guide Coley Gentzel called with a dispatch from Team 5 today at 3:45pm. He said that the team left from Camp 1 this morning at 5:30am headed for Camp 2. They arrived at 3:30pm after a big day. "Everyone was pretty tuckered out when we got to Camp 2," Coley said. "It's a pretty big day coming up from Camp 1, but everyone did really well. We'll head down to 10,000 feet tomorrow to retrieve our cache, which is a pretty easy day (just 1 mile and 1000 feet of elevation loss/gain), so we can spend the rest of the day relaxing."

Coley said that Camp 2 is currently pretty crowded, so they had to mostly start fresh with building camp walls and digging in, as most of the established sites had already been claimed. Digging the cooktent in was especially difficult, as they found 3.5 feet of fresh powder over bulletproof ice. Coley estimated it took them a total of 4 hours to build their camp.

The team is slowly easing off the night schedule. "We're on the early morning schedule now," Coley said. "It's been colder during the day, so we no longer have to travel by night."

On another note, Coley reported that he saw Team 3 on their way back down the mountain at about 2:35am this morning. They were heading for Base Camp and might be able to fly out today, if not tomorrow.

Dispatch #7: June 11, 2007

The following dispatches came in over the weekend from Team 5:

Friday, June 8 - 8:50pm
Guide Alasdair Turner called in from Camp 2 to say that Team 5 made their cache at 13,500 feet. He said the weather was reasonable, though it had started snowing again now that they were back in camp. They are hoping for a break in the weather soon, and they planned to move up to Camp 3 the next morning.

Dispatch #8: Saturday, June 9 - 11:20pm
Guide Coley Gentzel reported in from Camp 3. He said that after a 7.5-hour push, the team arrived at Camp 3. It was a long push getting to camp, but they had beautiful weather and everyone felt good. Tomorrow they plan to retrieve their cache at Windy Corner. "We're staying optimistic," Coley said. "Everyone is really strong, we're just hoping for more good weather."

Dispatch #9: June 11, 2007

Guide Coley Gentzel called at 1:30pm today to let us know that Team 5 is having a "rest and acclimatization day" at Camp 3. Yesterday the team retrieved their cache from Windy Corner, and today they will be sorting through all their gear, food, and group equipment so they can take the lightest load possible to High Camp. Depending on what Team 4's situation is, Team 5 will either be caching above the fixed lines or moving to High Camp (a move to High Camp would be made possible if Team 4 was able to leave their group gear up their for them). Coley said the weather at Camp 3 is reasonable, with intermittent clouds and light snow.

Guide Gary Kuehn made the group a great breakfast of hash browns, eggs, and bacon. As per this, Gary's expert tip of the day is: "Don't wear sunglasses on your head while frying bacon in the cook tent! The glasses will get covered in grease ... though your hair will have a nice sheen!"

Alasdair's expert tip from yesterday was: "Double-check the contents of your water bottle before dumping it as you may want to keep what's inside." (We don't know what was in Alasdair's water bottle ... sounds like something valuable!)

Dispatch #10: June 12, 2007

Guide Coley Gentzel called today at 5pm with a bit of trivia from Camp 3. He asked, "Guess how hot it was in our tents when we returned to Camp 3 after putting in a cache at 16,400 feet? 117 degrees Fairenheit!" Coley said that the temperature outside the tents felt like the mid 80's, but in reality it was more like the mid 30's. This is due to the absolutely perfect weather they had, with completely sunny skies and no wind. He also said the same of the weather up higher on the mountain where they put their cache in.

Coley said the team did so flawlessly going up the fixed lines that they were complimented by passing climbers on their efficiency. Kudos to Team 5!

Tomorrow (Wednesday), the team plans to move to High Camp. Depending on how they feel once they are up there, they will try for the summit on Thursday or Friday. "The weather window is looking really good," Coley said. "The next four days are supposed to be really great with low lying clouds and no winds."

Dispatch #11: June 14, 2007

Guide Coley Gentzel called today at 5pm from High Camp with a brief message. The team took a rest day in preparation for tomorrow's summit attempt. Coley said, "The weather is holding strong, and actually tomorrow is supposed to be the best day of the week - good day for a summit bid! We're planning on leaving camp tomorrow for the summit at 9am. We're all very excited about tomorrow and about the prospect of summiting in such great conditions!"

Dispatch #12: June 15, 2007

Members of Team 5 are on their way to the summit! Guide Coley Gentzel called today at 9:30am to report that the team would be leaving from High Camp for the summit in about an hour. Coley said it was a perfect day with not a breath of wind and a temperature of -15F ... as cold and calm as it can be! Great weather for summit day! Good luck Team 5! We'll be waiting to hear how the day went...

Dispatch #13: June 16, 2007

Coley Gentzel called in at 12:03am Alaska time with the following news:

"It's late Friday night and we're back at High Camp after a successful summit day. Eight climbers and three guides reached the summit today under beautiful conditions.

There's been a light breeze, maybe 5 - 10 mph, so we definitely had to wear our warm clothes; it's probably -20F. Really not bad. We had fantastic views, and we are a group of very excited climbers. It's been a brilliant day.

Now the plan is to head to Camp 3 tomorrow [Saturday]. We'll check the weather, and see about working our way off the mountain."

Transmission ended abruptly at that point. This is great news, and we offer our hearty congratulations to the team.

Dispatch #14: June 18, 2007

Guide Gary Keuhn called Sunday afternoon the 17th to say that the team would start heading down from Camp 3 in the evening. If everyone feels good, they'll push all the way to Base Camp with the hope of flying out late on Monday the 18th. He said that if they keep that pace, they may not be able to take the time to call until they are back in Talkeetna. If the weather is good and planes are flying when they arrive at base, it will be a frenzy of activity to get ready to fly out.

Dispatch #15: June 18, 2007

Team 5 just called from Base Camp. Guide Coley Gentzel said that the team left Camp 3 last night at 8pm and hiked through the night, arriving at Base Camp at 6am. He said it took them a while to negotiate the heavily crevassed lower Kahiltna Glacier, and winding through the crevasses with their heavy sleds was a bit arduous. As Coley was reporting his dispatch, he got word that the planes were on the way, so the team should be in Talkeetna in a couple of hours! Coley said they plan to gorge themselves on hamburgers and beer at the West Rib as soon as they can (burgers and beer have been the main subject of conversation over the last few days).

Congratulations once again Team 5 for a successful summit!