Denali - West Buttress: May 22 - June 11, 2005

Guides: Jason Martin, Joseph Anderson
Climbers: Hannu Sallila, James Sallila, Kahshin Leow, Tobias Eberl, Mike Boyer, Christian Sumner, Jim Epperson

Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition:

Dispatch 1, May 25: We received word from our first Denali Expedition regarding our May 22 Denali team. Jason Martin, Joseph Anderson, and the members of the May 22 Denali Expedition were seen at about the 9000' level yesterday. They were able to get onto the glacier on their scheduled day (May 22) and had two days of bad weather right off the bat. Now that things have cleared, they have been making good time, and they are planning to move to 11,000 feet today and pick up their cache at 10,000' tomorrow. Once they are at the 14,200' camp they will be able to call in and provide some additional details.

Dispatch 2, May 26: "The weather is deteriorating and the visibility is pretty bad" Jason Martin yelled into his phone, trying hard to overcome the background noise the wind was creating. As of 3:00 pm, the team was at Kahiltna Pass (10,000') retrieving their cache of gear and in the process of moving back up to their camp, now positioned at 11,000 feet. They would like to move their next load of gear around Windy Corner (which is living up to its name right now!) and move up to 13,500 feet in the next couple of days. The weather forecast is marginal at this point, and it's definitely possible that the conditions could keep them at 11,000 feet for a few days.

The team has had several days of hard work thanks to recent snowfall and of course - the always heavy loads. Jason said, "Today we exchanged our usual good morning greetings for comments about the additional amount of work we now have ahead of us because of the fresh snow." Despite the hard work, he said team spirit and motivation both remain high. If weather allows the expedition to move, the next report from the group will probably be from the 14,200-foot camp in a few days.

Dispatch 3, May 29: The team called from the 14,200-foot camp this evening. They are glad to be safely through Windy Corner, which has been living up to its name with extremely high winds that actually prevented the team from getting through on their first attempt yesterday. "We fought fiercly to get around Windy Corner," Jason reported, "but it just wasn't happening. Also, there were over a hundred climbers there trying to cache. It was very hectic and we just ended up caching." To make it through safely today, the group had to move quickly because of rockfall danger.

Now at Camp 3, the team is planning on retreiving their cache at Windy Corner tomorrow, and moving up the mountain as soon as weather permits.

Dispatch 4, May 30: Stormy weather continues to cover the upper mountain. The team retrieved their cache from Windy Corner today, and reported extremely high winds and heavily overcast skies. Jason says last night was a cold one, with the temperature inside the tent dropping to 9 degrees F. Today they watched as a helicopter flew a climber from another team off the mountain who had frostbitten fingers.

Jason says that the weather above them looks socked in, but they will move up tomorrow if they can to make their third cache at 16,200 feet.

Dispatch 5, May 31: The team is taking a planned rest day at the Camp 3 (14,200') in the midst of some interesting weather patterns. "It's kind of strange, it's been really warm during the day, and very cold at night," Jason describes over the phone. "Yesterday the sun was out and it got up to 91 degrees F in our tents, but during the night it's been below 10 degrees F." When Jason called it was snowing lightly, and the forecast for the next couple of days calls for cloudy skies and some snowfall.

Last night one of the team members, Mike Boyer, presented to the group a set of prayer flags that his mother made. Her instructions were for each climber to sign and write encouraging notes on them, then to hang them in their camp for inspiration and good luck. Thank you to Mrs. Boyer for such a thoughtful gift!

On another note, Jason said earlier today the team undertook a "community service project" for the greater good - building a snow wall around the toilet at Camp 3. "The toilet is out in the open, right in the middle of camp," Jason said, "so we decided to take a couple of hours and create some privacy for everyone." Our second Denali Expedition apparently attempted this feat a week or two ago, but was delayed in their snow shoveling every time one of the many climbers at Camp 3 had to use the toilet. Jason's team devised another solution. They pre-cut large blocks of packed snow from a distance, loaded them up on sleds, and brought them over to the toilet area. Then in one, swift action they constructed a sturdy barrier between the toilet and the eyes of camp. This dramatic act was much applauded across the expanse of Camp 3! Way to go!

Dispatch 6, June 1: Guide Jason Martin called in at 5:30 Alaska time to report that the team had returned to their 14,000-foot camp an hour earlier after establishing a cache at 16,200 feet today. The night had been a good, mild one. One person got an in-tent reading of 6 degrees F, but Jason thought his tent was even warmer. He reported, "We left this morning at 9:40 and made it to the top of the Buttress by 1:00 p.m. Temperatures were mild - probably in the teens - but it was blowing hard and pretty cold. Everyone did a great job and is feeling strong. After setting up our cache, we located and were able to dig out the snow cave that was used on the first winter ascent of Denali and described by Art Davidson in his book "Minus 148 Degrees." Jason said several members of the team had read the book and were excited to step into the cave where the climbers survived unheard-of low temperatures for about a week. He said, "There was nothing in there, but you could still see marks of foams pads etched in the floor. It's big enough for 6 or 7 people to stay in it, and it was powerful to stand in there and imagine what those climbers had gone through." The low snow year of the past winter is bringing all kinds of revelations on the mountain.

The group spent about two hours at 16,200 feet, exploring and acclimatizing. It cleared later in the day as they descended the Buttress, and by late afternoon they were enjoying very warm temperatures in the sun (the interior of one tent hit 91 degrees F!). At the end of the call Jason described the scene, "It's so peaceful compared to the morning, and the clouds are all below us now. Foraker and Hunter are sticking up through the clouds, and we are all enjoying a beautiful evening. We're looking forward to our move to 17,200 feet tomorrow."

Dispatch 7, June 3: Guide Jason Martin called at 10:05 a.m., June 3, to report that they had been able to keep to their plan and climb to and occupy high camp yesterday afternoon, June 2. Jason reported, "It was a huge day with heavy packs, and we reached camp at 9:00 p.m. It ended up being a beautiful day, and it felt warm, but at camp it was -30 F when we arrived. We had trouble melting snow last night for water. We had four stoves working one big pot of snow and it seemed to take forever."

"Today is clear and beautiful, but after yesterday's push, we have to take a rest day. We're feeling good and we hope to summit in a day or two."

Dispatch 8, June 6: Guide Jason Martin called Sunday night June 5th to report that the team had considered a summit attempt on Saturday but didn't try it because it was just too cold. They made an attempt yesterday (Sunday the 5th) but didn't make it. A couple of people couldn't stay warm and had to turn around part way up, and then just below the summit a case of AMS turned the other group around. They were planning to move to the 14,000-foot camp Monday, June 6. We should hear from them again soon.

Dispatch 9, June 7: Guide Jason Martin called early this morning (6:00 Alaska time) to say that Team #3 descended to 11,000 feet after a long push yesterday. He said that everyone slept extremely well last night and feels ready to hike the remaining 10 miles to Base Camp. The team hopes to make it all the way to the base by the end of today, and plans to fly off the glacier as soon as weather permits. We wish them a safe journey for the remainder of their trip off the mountain!

Dispatch 10, June 8: We received a call yesterday evening from Jason reporting that the team had successfully descended to the base. They were flown off the glacier yesterday afternoon and are now back in Talkeetna safe and sound.