Denali - West Buttress: May 13-June 2, 2007
Guides: Seth Hobby, Joseph Anderson
Climbers: Elsie Bezuidenhout, Ed Hobbick, Karsten Holstad, Stuart Greene, Dominika Dillier Degelo, Jack Strickland
Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition:
Dispatch 1: May 14, 2007
We just received word from AAI guides Seth Hobby and Joseph Anderson of Team 2 that their group was able to fly into Denali Base Camp this morning!
Like Team 1, Team 2 was delayed in getting to Base Camp due to weather. We should be hearing more soon!
Dispatch 2: May 15, 2007
Seth called today at 11am from
Camp 1 (7800') with a report from Team 2. He said that they flew in yesterday to
Base Camp at 10:30am, spent the early afternoon getting
organized, then started out for Camp 1 around 3pm. Amidst fairly difficult conditions (including wind and 14 inches of fresh snow), they broke trail for six and a half
hours with full single-carry loads and eventually reached Camp 1 at 9:30pm pretty pooped. Luckily, when they arrived in camp, they found a tent site that was recently
vacated and they moved right in, setting up their tents and firing up the stoves for dinner in a reasonable amount of time.
Seth said that last night the weather continued to be unstable with more snow and wind, which filled in all the established tracks above and around camp. Since they had a big day yesterday, the team got a leisurely start this morning and are currently preparing to leave to put in a cache at 10,000 feet. It will probably be another hard day, considering all the new snow and the fact that they are the only team currently at Camp 1 and so will be the first to break trail up to the cache.
Everyone is doing well, despite the hard conditions. Seth said, "We do have the place all to ourselves and it's nice and quiet. We can also see Denali's summit right now, which is cool. We'll call again when we can."
Dispatch 3: May 17, 2007
Guide Seth Hobby called today around noon on the satellite phone from Camp 2. He said that the team is getting ready to do a backcarry down to their cache
at 9500 feet. They will bring their cache up to Camp 2, where they will spend one more night, then tomorrow will take a load above Camp 2 to make another cache
at 13,500 feet. "We're staying right on schedule," Seth said.
He reported that the weather has been very clear, with a high pressue system making for downright cold nights. The days themselves have been pretty hot, with unobstructed sun beating down on the glacier. The forecast calls for more clear weather in the days ahead.
Seth's phone cut out numerous times before we could collect more information, but it sounds like everyone is doing well and staying motivated!
Dispatch 4: May 18, 2007
Guide Joseph Anderson called at 3pm from Camp 2 to say that the weather had become cooler and that it was a bit of a relief after having gotten blasted by the sun for several days. He said, "Everything has been going perfectly - to a T so far, but today we're staying here because of a whiteout, wind, and snow. We're hunkered down and comfortable. The cold isn't bad and everyone is having a good rest day. Once we get to 14,000 feet, we'll call with some more interesting news, but that's about it for now. All is well. Talk to you soon."
Dispatch 5: May 21, 2007
Guide Seth Hobby called at 3pm today to give us an update on the weekend's activities. Unfortunatley, his satellite phone
cut out several times due to their location at Camp 3, and so he was only able to get a brief message across to us.
On Saturday, the team put in a cache at 13,600 feet. The weather started out very cold (about -5F early in the morning), and the team broke trail from Camp 2 and up Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill. They then made their cache and descended back to Camp 2, where they enjoyed a nice afternoon in the sun.
Sunday, Seth said, was "the most splitter, bluebird day ever." The team moved to Camp 3 amidst very nice temperatures, clear skies, full views, and great travel conditions (as they already put in a trail the day before). They left at 10am and arrived at Camp 3 around 5pm. "We had a very smooth transition and moved right into Team 1's old camp! We had a cook tent up in a matter of minutes," Seth said.
At this point, Seth's sat phone cut out several times in a row (sat phone reception at Camp 3 is spotty). We imagine the team will be putting in a cache at 16,200 feet tomorrow, just below the "Ridge".
Dispatch 6: May 22, 2007
Guide Seth Hobby called today at noon to say that yesterday, after an enormous breakfast of eggs, hashbrowns, bacon, and,
of course, lots of butter, the team did a backcarry to Windy Corner to retrieve
their cache. Once they were back at Camp 3,
they spent the rest of the day doing some major energy loading: resting, hanging out, and "eating fat." The day started out cloudy, but turned into a beautiful afternoon.
Today (Tuesday), is a scheduled full rest day, and a good one at that as the weather has turned overcast and is snowing a bit. "I can see partly across to Foraker, but there are mostly dark clouds about 16,000 feet. We are enjoying the cool temps, however, and I imagine today will involve lots of tent time and relaxation." If the weather cooperates, the group will also probably do a little fixed line practice and may walk out to "The Edge of the World" for some photos.
Weather permitting, the team will ascend the fixed lines tomorrow and put in their last cache at 16,400 feet. Seth said that all team members are doing very well and are happy and healthy and in good spirits.
Dispatch 7: May 23, 2007
We received a very brief message from guide Seth Hobby of Team 2 this morning. Seth said that the team is currently at Camp 3
and preparing to head up the fixed lines
today to put in a cache at 16,400 feet.
Seth said the team is feeling strong, and the weather on the upper mountain is currently clear (clear above 11,000 feet).
They are enjoying spectacular views from camp and expect to have a great day!
Dispatch 8: May 25, 2007
Joseph called at 1:22pm today with the following message:
Yesterday Team 2 made their cache at 16,400 feet. They started off with perfect weather, though high winds and falling snow developed as they approached the fixed lines. The whole party was super strong and moved efficiently on the way up the lines, and they reached the top in a half hour - a great time in light of the weather conditions. Joseph said there was "no messin' around!"
After caching their gear in a calm spot behind some rocks, they went back down the fixed lines and back to Camp 3. On the way down, the winds grew even stronger, causing driving sideways snow. Joseph said, "It was quite exciting."
Even though it snowed all night at 14,200 feet, the temperature hasn't been too cold. Every remained very comfortable as the temperature dropped to zero. The team is sitting tight today, waiting out the weather, resting, improving camp, getting hydrated, and staying away from Joseph's stinky feet. The team has been enjoying views of Mt. Foraker and the West Buttress as the weather improves.
If weather cooperates, the team will make a move for High Camp tomorrow!
Dispatch 9: May 28, 2007 - Team 2 Reaches the Summit!
Guide Joseph Anderson called at 12:30 today with the good news that Team 2 reached the summit! Here is a recap of the last few days leading up to the summit:He said that the team left Camp 3 and moved up to High Camp on Friday. Everyone did very well, even with very huge packs. The team enjoyed good views on of the whole Alaska Range while coming into camp at 5:00pm, and overall they made great time and were feeling good.
When they arrived at High Camp, the forecast was good but then it was set to become increasingly cloudy then "turn to junk" on Sunday, Monday, and Tuesday. The team faced the decision of either waiting at High Camp for days with the risk of not reaching the summit or making a summit bid. The decision was made amongst the team to go for the summit. They left camp at 11am Saturday; the temperature was pretty warm by High Camp standards. Many people were going for the summit and Team 2 let several other teams go before them. On the way up, they took many rest breaks to make sure everyone was feeling well.
When they arrived at Pig Hill, progress became "super slow" due to high traffic. Weather was mild to the north. They could not see to the south but watched Mt. Foraker start to disappear in the clouds. As the team reached the summit ridge, clouds came in and visibility diminished. At 7:15pm, all team members reached the summit! They took pictures, then headed down the mountain as winds were really picking up.
Joseph said that as the team hurried down the ridge, they were very watchful of their steps - they knew they were tired and visibility was not in their favor. At the Football Field, the team stopped to make sure everyone was warm enough. They discussed how it was time to put it into high gear and get down the mountain safely as soon as possible. Which they did, and in reasonable time. One team member had a minor case of AMS, but has completely recovered. Once back at High Camp, guide Seth Hobby got everyone a hot brew and dinner in bed, and everyone slept a good satisfied sleep.
The team woke up to windy and snowy conditions on Sunday morning. Joseph said it was pretty cold and that he knew the weather wasn't going to be as blustery down low, so everyone packed up in poor conditions and headed down the mountain. Along the buttress it was pretty windy, but when the team moved down the fixed lines they got out of the way of the storm. As the team reached 15,000 feet, they could already hear Camp 3, which sounded like a nightclub below them. As they reached Camp 3, they discovered that it had quadrupled in size since the last time they were there. The group met up with Tim Connelly and the rest of Team 3, chatted a bit, and set up camp.
Today the team is feeling healthy and happy. They are currently chowing down on omelets, bacon, and cheese....mmmm.
Way to go Team 2!! We'll be hearing from them as they descend back to Base Camp and fly back to Talkeetna.
Dispatch 10: May 29, 2007
Guide Seth Hobby called this afternoon to give a final report from Team 2. He said that the team made it back to Talkeetna this morning safe and sound. He recounts:After eating a huge egg and bacon brunch yesterday morning at Camp 3 (after summiting), the team organized their gear and set off for Base Camp at 4:30pm. They walked all the way through the night in light snow and wind and reached Base Camp at 4am. Seth said there were over 100 climbers are Base Camp all waiting to fly out (the weather hadn't been good enough for the planes to fly climbers off the glacier). When the team arrived, the light was grey and erie, Seth said. As they dropped their packs and started to set up their tents for a quick nap, the sun began to rise and they could see that the clouds weren't very thick, so they knew they'd be able to fly out! They hopped in their tents and took a nap until 6am, when they were woken by the sounds of the climbers around them, excited that they'd finally be able to get off the glacier.
Seth said the team is going to have their "final hoorah" tonight at the West Rib Pub. Congratulations once again to Team 2!