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Denali - West Buttress: May 13 - June 3, 2006 Guides: Matt Anderson, Dawn Glanc, Erik Johnson, Coley Gentzel Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition: Dispatch 1, May 16: AAI guide Matt Anderson from Team #3 called in Wednesday evening and left the following brief message: "Our team is currently at 7800 feet. We will be moving to Camp 2 (11,000') tomorrow at about 5am. The forecast looks to be getting worse for the next 72 hours, but we're all feeling good and preparing to move up the mountain. We'll keep you posted!" Dispatch 2, May 18: AAI guide Matt Anderson from Team #3 called in Wednesday evening and left the following brief message: "Our team is currently at 7800 feet. We will be moving to Camp 2 (11,000') tomorrow at about 5am. The forecast looks to be getting worse for the next 72 hours, but we're all feeling good and preparing to move up the mountain. We'll keep you posted!" Dispatch 3, May 19: AAI guide Dawn Glanc from Team #3 called in Friday evening and left the following dispatch: "Yesterday, May 18, we got a 5:30am start from our 7800-foot camp and left for Camp 2 at 11,000 feet. The trip took about seven hours. There was almost no visibility the entire time - it was like being inside of a ping pong ball! Eventually, the white out conditions lifted and we had fabulous views and photo opportunities in the evening when the sun came out. This morning we all slept in and then had a huge breakfast of bacon, eggs, and hashbrowns - it was one of the highlight meals of the trip for sure. Today was our 'active rest day'. We did a backcarry to retrieve our cache at 10,000 feet, and once we got back we worked on beefing up the snow walls around our camp in preparation for the high winds that are predicted to hit tonight. Tomorrow if all goes well we will place a cache at Windy Corner (13,500') then descend back to 11,000 feet for the night. Other than that, we're all doing well, feeling strong, and continue to be in good spirits." Dispatch 4, May 20: On Saturday (May 20), we received a brief message from Teams #2 and #3, which are currently traveling on the same schedule up the mountain. Both teams were at the 11,000-foot camp as of Saturday morning and were preparing to make a cache at Windy Corner (13,500') that afternoon. High winds, with gusts up to 60 mph, blew through Camp 2 Friday night, but the teams said their "well-fortified" camp (i.e., their massive snow walls) stood up well to the challenge. Both teams are hoping to reach Camp 3 (14,200') by Monday or Tuesday, depending on the weather. They promised to call either way. Dispatch 5, May 22: AAI guide Matt Anderson of Denali Team #3 called today at 1:30pm Pacific time. Matt said, "We all arrived here at Camp 3 (14,200') late yesterday evening amidst surprisingly beautiful weather. It's almost as if all the bad weather that was forecasted passed through down below us - we saw a very solid cloud bank below us as we were making our way up yesterday. Both Teams #2 and #3 successfully put in caches at Windy Corner (13,500') on Saturday, and today we are going to head down to retrieve those caches. Tomorrow we'll ascend the fixed lines on the headwall out of camp and put in a cache on the ridge at 16,200 feet. The weather forecast looks pretty good for the next few days, and we're all stoked to keep moving up the mountain!" Dispatch 6, May 28:On Sunday May 28th, at 3pm Alaska time, Matt Anderson relayed the news that "the weather has been marginal for the last four days," and as a result, "we're still stuck at 14,000'." Matt said they recorded wind gusts of up to 65 mph in camp on Friday night. Thankfully, going by Sunday and Monday's forecast, their patience won't have to be tested much longer. With lighter winds on the way, Matt expects conditions will be favorable enough for them to ascend to high camp at 17,000' and start thinking about the summit. Here's hoping the forecast holds! Dispatch 7, May 30: We just received an entertaining call from Team #3, which is happy to be camped at 17,000' after spending eight days at 14,000' waiting for a break in the unrelenting winds. The team tried for the summit today, but they were forced to turn around due to poor visibility and 30 mph winds. They hope to make another attempt tomorrow. That will still give them two days for the descent to the to the ski plane landing area on the lower Kahiltna Glacier. AAI staffer Coley Gentzel is delving heavily into the team's duct tape supply after melting the vestibule of his tent this morning. The Team 3 reminded him to melt water next time or else he's going to run out of tent material. The winds don't seem to have ruined the sense of humor in this group. A second incident involving Coley occurred today, this time bringing great fortune to the members of the two teams. Coley was simultaneously dismayed and delighted to find bacon and hash browns hidden by someone in the team's food supply: dismayed because he was carrying this ration bag, delighted because now everyone was going to eat bacon and hash browns. To save on weight, teams usually do without the gustatory luxury of fresh foods at high elevation. But you won't find this crew complaining about the smell of bacon in camp. They better hurry up and eat before Team #4 catches a whiff and comes a-begging. Dispatch 8, June 2: Matt Anderson called today to report that Team #3 made it off the mountain. Matt ran back through the preceding days' order of events, starting with the team's first attempt at the summit on Tuesday, May 30. This attempt, described in Team #3's last dispatch, was cut short due to high winds and low visibility, leaving Wednesday as their final day to summit. Everyone's attention was on the weather that night as the team listened for wind and kept peaking out of their tents in hopes of seeing stars. Unfortunately, they woke up to a foot of snow and continued marginal weather conditions. Matt praised the team saying, "Everyone who made it to high camp was very capable, and they were doing a great job maintaining their focus. We just never had the day of good weather when we needed it." On Wednesday, they made a remarkable descent past their originally planned camping destination at 11,000', all the way down to Ski Hill camp at 7800'. The team reached base camp on Thursday morning and flew out Thursday afternoon, June 1. We send our congratulations to the team for their poise and stamina under difficult conditions. |