Denali - West Buttress: May 15 - June 4, 2005

Guides: Tim Connelly, Joey Elton, Dawn Glanc
Climbers: Darin Perusich, Scott Walter, Todd Beel, Brett Beel, Rob Morton, Joe Healey, Dave Donahue, Felix Brandt, Roman Danyliw

Following is a series of dispatches received via satellite phone throughout the expedition:

Dispatch 1, May 16: Our second Denali expedition was scheduled to fly out of Talkeetna yesterday. However, due to relentless rain the team had to postpone their departure until today. So far conditions today look postive for the flight out onto the glacier.

Dispatch 2, May 18: Our second Denali team is off to a strong start. Yesterday they made a carry to their first cache at 9,400 feet, and camped last night at 7,800 feet. With group laughter audible in the background, guide Dawn Glanc reported over the satellite phone, "Everyone is doing really well and having a great time so far!"

Dispatch 3, May 20: Guide Joey Elton reports great conditions and high spirits among team members. He told us, "One client said it best just as we were getting up to 11,000 feet when he remarked, 'The immensity of the Alaska Range reminds one of how small we are in the world.' "

Dispatch 4, May 21: The group hopes to move up to the 14,200-foot camp tomorrow, though it's questionable if conditions will allow it. The forecast suggests they may be socked in until Monday.

Dispatch 5, May 22: The group spent one more day at Camp 2 (11,000 feet) due to the storm. Despite this, guide Dawn Glanc says the team has been productive and has kept up their activity levels by digging out the camp's bathroom and kitchen! Everyone is hoping the weather will clear tomorrow so they can make the move up to Camp 3 (14,200 feet).

Dispatch 6, May 24: The weather cleared yesterday as everyone on the mountain had hoped, and Team #2 was able to move to 14,200 feet. Earlier today the group picked up their cache at 13,500 feet, which puts them in a great position. Everyone is in good health and tomorrow they plan to put in their cache at 16,200 feet.

This morning, shortly after leaving Windy Corner at 13,600 feet, Tim got news over the radio that several climbers from another expedition had fallen into a crevasse and needed assistance. Tim and the rest of the group were closest to the site and were first on the scene. A few more climbers arrived shortly afterward, and together the rescuers were able to build snow anchors, set up hauling systems, and haul the three climbers and their gear out of the crevasse in less than 45 minutes. Only one of the three fallen climbers had been roped to team members and the other two had fallen 50 feet onto another snow bridge spanning the chasm below. They were all very lucky to walk away virtually unscathed. Apparently all three climbers had been crossing a large snow bridge that failed and resulted in their fall.

On a lighter note, Tim proclaimed victory in todays international snowball fight at the 14,200 foot camp. Though his claim may be challenged by the Koreans, members of the Park Service, or perhaps the French team, Tim reports that a camera crew was present so the true winner can be determined at a later date.

Dispatch 7, May 27: The team called in last night from the 14,200-foot camp in the midst of stormy weather. They have been at this camp since the 24th due to constant winds and lots of fresh snow. Yesterday they thought they might get a chance to move when the weather suddenly cleared during lunch, but by 2:00 it was raging again. The group was planning on moving to high camp today, weather depending. Guide Dawn Glanc said the upper mountain looks "a little on the wild and stormy side." She said for now they were just going to hunker down, make some burritos and warm drinks, and try to get a good night's sleep despite the winds.

Dispatch 8, May 28: The group has been at the 14,200-foot camp for several days now. Today they made an attempt to move up to High Camp (17,200), but had to turn around just below the fixed lines due to heavy winds and snowy conditions. Though there has been word that a few parties have been able to summit in the last day or two, most teams have been stuck at High Camp or the 14,200-foot camp for a while.

Team #2 will hopefully be able to ascend to High Camp tomorrow or Monday. Monday will be their last attempt to move up the mountain before dwindling time and supplies necessitate their descent.

Dispatch 9, June 1: After three days of silence, the team was able to call late last night from the 17,200-foot High Camp. "It's blowing really bad up here," guide Tim Connelly reported, "It cleared up for a while after we got here on Sunday, then we took a rest day on Monday and it started up again." Yesterday was the team's first scheduled summit day, but they were stalled due to zero visibility and high winds that reached up to 30 mph. "It's been really cold," Tim said, "This morning at 10am the temperature was 2 degrees F, and the forecast calls for a drop to negative 10 F."

The group is biding their time, but there is not much more to spare before they must descend. Hopefully, the skies will clear enough that the team will get their chance at the summit today or tomorrow.

Dispatch 10, June 2: Today is the last day the team has to try for the summit before they must begin their descent back to Base Camp. Guide Joey Elton called late in the day yesterday and explained, "It's pretty socked in right now. If it's not clear tomorrow morning, we're going to descend and will fly out of the Kahiltna base by Friday. If the weather is nice in the morning we will attempt to summit, and then we'll get back down to the base by Saturday to fly out." Joey said the group is doing really well and staying active. He and two clients descended to 16,200 feet to retrieve the cache, while back at High Camp the rest of the group went on a "walkabout" to get some excercise. They have been at High Camp now for five days, and have spent much of that time in their tents sheltered from the weather.

We eagerly await news from the team and should know sometime today whether they went for the summit or had to descend.

Dispatch 11, June 3: SUMMIT!

We received the following message at 5:58 p.m. Alaska time, June 2:

This is Joey Elton calling you from the 20,320-foot summit of Denali, the highest point in North America. We were successful in our attempt to make the summit today. We left at 9:30 this morning and just summited about one minute ago. It's -19 F, though feels warmer."

The skies are for the most part clear, with a mid level layer of clouds below us. We see Foraker and Hunter and the Kahiltna Peaks rising through the clouds beautifully. The views are spectacular."

We are all in great spirits as you can imagine. All but one climber made it. This is a group of people that worked wonderfully together as a team. The climbers here are from all over the country and one from Europe, and they all came together wonderfully as a team, helping each other as we gradually moved up the mountain, and now sharing in this incredible moment."

There's no better place to be! And it's all downhill from here! Wow. Everyone is absolutely thrilled, including myself. We're absolutely thrilled to be here. Pictures are being taken like crazy. Congratulations and hugs are being exchanged. There are a lot of pats on the back. This is a wonderful moment that no one will ever forget. We feel absolutely great. Each team member sends their love to their families. We miss you, and we'll see you soon."

Dispatch 12, June 4: Tim Connelly called this morning to report that his team had happily made it off the mountain after the long decent. Tim said, "We left our high camp at 17,200 last night [June 3] at 9:00 p.m. and arrived at 6:00 a.m. this morning. We took a break at 14,000 feet and had some bagel sandwiches with bacon and cheese, but this is a strong team and everybody wanted to get to the KIA [the glacier landing strip on the Kahiltna, referred to as the Kahiltna International Airport or KIA] as early as possible this morning to maximize our chances of getting off. It all worked fine, and I was the last one off at 11:30 this morning." Last heard they were in Talkeetna doing some serious eating and looking forward to their first showers. Congratulations to everyone for your patience in waiting out the storms at 17,200 feet and your ten-person summit success in a small window of opportunity!