Seth Hobby reaching camp on the Moose's Tooth in April of 2003. Denali is in the background.

This was a busy year for the Institute's clients and employees in the Alaska Range. Below you will find some trip reports, and you may also want to check out some of the images from climbing up there this spring in our slide show. List of our 2003 Trips in the Alaska Range Ruth Gorge Climbing and Ascents (link to Trip Report and slideshow) with Seth Hobby and Coley Gentzel, May 20-April 10, 2003 Alaska Range and Ruth Gorge Climbing May 9-16, 2003 with John Kear and Michael Cannon Moose's Tooth Expedition May 19-26 with Dylan Taylor, Jay Hack, Pete Kilpatrick, Mark Johncox, and Steve Larson West Buttress Trips: May 25-June 14, June 1-21 & June 15-July 5 Alaska Range Alpine Mountaineering Course June 29-July 5 Alaska Range and Ruth Gorge Climbing May 9-16, 2003 with John Kear and Michael Cannon. AAI client Michael Cannon and Guide John Kear headed into the Ruth Glacier area of the Alaska Range on April 10th. After arriving and getting some first hand information on the snow conditions in the area, they chose the Japanese Couloir on Mount Barrille as their first objective. They must have been anxious to get climbing because after getting dropped off on the glacier on the first day of their trip, they dug in basecamp, made the 3.5 mile ski to the base of Barrille, and climbed the 2500 foot route before nightfall. After two days of snow, John and Michael headed across the Ruth Glacier and Don Sheldon Amphitheatre and were able to capitalize on the good weather to climb an aesthetic ridge on Explorers Peak for their second beautiful Alaskan summit. Moose's Tooth Expedition (May 19-26) with Guides Dylan Taylor and Jay Hack and climbers Pete Kilpatrick from Seattle, Mark Johncox from Grand Cayman Island, and Steve Larson from Glendale California. With plans to climb the West Ridge of the Mooses Tooth, the team's approach took them up through an ice fall from the Ruth Glacier and onto a snow covered shoulder and to the base of the route. Snow conditions weren't ideal, but they were able to make a long push up the ridge and stopped just short of the true summit. Their effort and the length of their summit day were definitely impressive. After the group's strenuous approach, climb, and descent, the team was feeling well worked, but after a day's rest on the glacier they were able to add Mount Barrille to their Alaskan summits. Congratulations to the team for their success on the Moose's Tooth and for climbing Barille's very steep Japanese Couloir. Denali West Buttress Expeditions This year the Institute ran three expeditions to climb Denali via the West Buttress route. Our first trip was May 25-June 14 and it was led by John Kear, Julia Niles and Seth Hobby. Nine climbers joined our guides and after making their way up to high camp at 17,200 feet the team was pinned by bad weather for just short of a week. They dug in and waited it out, and were able to reach the summit on June 12th. The climbing team included Myles Osborne (New York City), James Mee (Chamonix), David Green, (Arlington, VA), Jay Meyer (Falmouth, ME), Michael Miller (Arvada, CO), Fritz Pameijer (Hartford, CT), Francois Pilote (Comox, BC), Rebecca Montange (Rochester, NY), and John Healy (Calgary, AB). The second team on the West Buttress was led by guides Lyle Haugsven and Stephen Karney. Lyle and Steve were joined by climbers Dan Morehead (Woodside, CA), Gordon Stafford (Basalt, CA), Bill English (Anchorage), Tony Van Marken (Chateauneuf de Grasse, France), and Ziggy Skirucha (Franklin Park, IL). After a false start and having to turn around on their initial flight in because of building clouds, the team was finally able to make it onto the Kahiltna Glacier and start working their way up the mountain. The only bad weather they encountered was while they were at the 11,000 foot level. Aside from that, both route and weather conditions were excellent all the way to the summit. All members of the team were able to successfully complete their climb and stand on the summit of Denali on June 16. Our third West Buttress expedition, June 15-July 5, was led by Bill Crouse and Cory Bennett with team members, Phil Varcas (Reading, Berkshire), Max Chaya (Beirut), Anthony Baldry (Bondi Junction, NSW), and John Rost (Huntington Beach, CA). The team was able to make quick progress to the 14,000 foot camp and after a few rest days move to a high camp. Most of the team summited in good conditions on June 30th.