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Climbers negotiate crevasses while descending the Kautz Glacier. Alasdair Turner

Mount Rainier offers a full range of glacier routes, and we have chosen two at an intermediate technical level that are of especially high quality. Join us for an ascent of the Kautz Glacier. From the departure point on the western edge of the Wilson Glacier at 9,200 feet, the route skirts towering formations of rock and ice, proceeds up sections of steep, technical terrain, and crosses several different glaciers in the path to Rainier’s summit. While Mount Rainier sees a total of over 8,000 climbers per season, the Kautz Glacier sees but a very small fraction of that number. For those interested in taking “the road less traveled," this route reserves a very special sense of accomplishment and adventure.

On day one, we travel to the mountain and begin with a review of alpine skills on the lower Nisqually Glacier. We review knots, self-arrest, foot and axe placements for ascent and descent on both moderate and steeper ground, and Leave No Trace (LNT) travel, camping, and climbing ethics and procedures. We establish a camp on the eastern edge of the lower Nisqually.

On day two, we ascend the western edge of the Wilson Glacier and camp beneath Camp Hazard, at around 11,000 feet, to put ourselves in position for our ascent of the Kautz Glacier.

Very early on the third, day we begin our summit bid. The Kautz Glacier is considerably circuitous, glaciated, and steep in parts, often requiring the placement of snow and ice protection. Eventually, we reach Columbia Crest and make the short climb to the mountain’s true summit at 14,410 feet. Under good conditions, views range south to the volcanoes of Oregon and north to Mt. Baker and the Canadian border peaks.

Our final day is used to descend the Wilson and lower Nisqually Glaciers, and hike out from the mountain. We will return to Seattle by late afternoon or early evening.

The Kautz Glacier, Mt. Rainier. Alasdair Turner

1. Excellent physical condition
2. Completion of multiple glaciated routes with sustained difficulties up to fifty degrees or experience equivalent to completion of our six-day, Alpine Ice course; a good understanding of glacier travel procedures including crevasse rescue.
3. 18 years of age or older

If you do not have current climbing skills that meet the pre-requisites, you can participate in one of several preparatory courses in order to gain or refresh the needed skills. If you have questions on your qualifications, please call or email us at anytime and we'll be happy to review your personal experience in relationship to the prerequisites.

1. Call the Institute (360) 671-1505, Mon-Fri 9am-5:30pm PST to check on space availability and to review your qualifications;
2. Make a reservation by giving us your name and phone number (maximum of 2 reservations per call);
3. Send in application form and full payment for receipt within 7 days.

Fee Schedule and Cancellation Policy: Non-refundable tuition is due in full when you register. In the event you have to cancel, we will return all but a $150 cancellation fee to you if another climber takes your place.

If you wish to join the waitlist and need to commit vacation time or plan a personal schedule around those dates, we can arrange a climb on another peak in the Cascade range that offers a similar challenge and climbing experience. This option allows you to plan your trip, make travel arrangements, and enjoy a climb during that period. With good luck you will clear the waitlist and be on Rainier but if not, you will climb another American classic. We always schedule Glacier Peak, Mount Shuksan, and Mount Baker climbs on the same dates as Rainier, so if you want to, you can usually join others making these great climbs. Please call us to discuss this option.

If you lack some glacier skills or if you are "rusty" with them (most climbers are if they don’t climb glaciated routes regularly), you might consider taking one of our preparatory programs.

Tuition for the program includes the guide's fee, transportation to the mountains from Seattle, and all group climbing equipment (ropes, hardware, tents, and stoves).

Tuition excludes the $30 Mt. Rainier National Park climbing fee (annual pass valid for one year); lodging for the night before the trip and the evening of the final day. Personal equipment is not included in the program cost, but it can be rented from our equipment shop. A complete list of recommended and required equipment is downloadable from the top of this page.

"My guide exceeded our expectations in every way. He explained everything clearly, was extremely patient while we practiced everything, and had a sense of humor that kept me laughing through the weekend!" Pete Nellist, Kirkland, WA

"I was particularly impressed with the guides' skills during the summit climb in marking the route with flags and compass readings in case of a white out." Course Participant, Mt. Rainier Ascent

"All guides were very professional, with attention to detail and safety." Larry Siu, Silverspring, MD

The Mount Rainier Ascent and Skills Seminar is an excellent program for those with intermediate alpine mountaineering skills wishing to test and improve their glacier and alpine skills and ascend one of the great peaks of the Cascades. It can be followed with climbs of other major peaks in the region including Glacier Peak (3-4 days), Mt. Shuksan (2 or 3 days), Forbidden Peak (3 days), Mt. Baker (2 or 3 days), Liberty Bell and South Early Winter Spire (1 day each). We will be happy to set up a custom itinerary for you or match you up with other climbers for these other classic ascents. Call us if you would like to hear more about these climbs or to see Classic Guided Ascents in Washington.”

Sunrise on Mt. Rainier. Steve Winchester