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| Length - 12 days |
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| Cost - $2880, add $880 for helicopter on Waddington only ($200 discount if you take Parts 2 and 3 within 14 months of each other). |
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| Max Ratio - 2:1 |
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| Capacity - 6 |
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Location
Picketts, Bugaboos, or Mt. Waddington, BC Coast Range |
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| Alpine Mountaineering and Leadership - Part 1 and 2 |
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| Jul 6 - Jul 17, 2008 |
| Jul 20 - Jul 31, 2008 |
| Aug 3 - Aug 14, 2008 |
| Aug 17 - Aug 28, 2008 |
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Alpine Mountaineering and Technical Leadership - Part 3 |
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Mt. Waddington is among the most remote, beautiful, and seldom seen climbs in North America. Dylan Taylor
- Take one or all three parts of this course: 12, 24, or 36 days
- Take the course in one year or over the course of two or three years.
- Complete all 3 parts & receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.
Part 3 Expedition Climbing and Leadership
The final portion of the Alpine Leadership Program is an expedition into one of three major North American ranges: the remote and spectacular Pickett Range in the North Cascades; the remarkable granite rock spires that rise from complex, heavily glaciated terrain of Bugaboo Provincial Park in British Columbia; or the rugged, dramatic, and seldom climbed Mt. Waddington in the British Columbia Coast Range. Each area has a different emphasis.
This program offers the unique opportunity for participants to co-lead an expedition. The first day is used for the organization of equipment and for food planning and purchase. The expedition serves as a finale to the leadership program because it brings together all the logistical skills, climbing techniques, and mountain judgment learned and practiced in Parts 2 and 3 in an even bigger scale, more complex, and more challenging environment.
Beautiful Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos. Andy Bourne
Program Summary & Certification
AAI's Alpine Mountaineering and Leadership program has been described by National Accreditation Reviewers as the most practical and complete course devoted to technical mountain leadership being offered in America. As we noted in our description of Part 2, the curriculum is designed to establish in participants sound judgment in the complex alpine environment as well as a high level of technical ability on rock, snow, and ice.
It is our primary goal that upon completion of the program you will be able to function successfully as an alpine climbing leader at an intermediate or more advanced level. Successful graduates receive certification in Alpine Mountaineering Leadership.
The Northern Picket Range, from the summit of Mt. Challenger. Myron Allen
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Follow Up Programs
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| Artesonraju Expedition |
| 14 days |
Advanced |
Cordillera Blanca, Peru |
June - August |
| Climb Pisco (18,870') and the classic Southeast Face of Artesonraju (19,768) in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. |
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| China - Tibet and Sichuan Expeditions |
| Trip #1 - 23 days; Trip #2 - 17 days |
Intermediate & Advanced |
Eastern Tibet & Southwest China |
Sept - November |
| These expeditions offer exploration and climbing in diverse and remote geographical areas, and the chance to experience Tibetan and Chinese cultures. Our climbing objectives are major unclimbed peaks between 18,000 and 20,000 feet. |
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| Denali Expedition - West Buttress |
| 21 Days |
Intermediate |
Alaska Range |
May - June |
| Over the course of 21 days, we establish 4 camps ranging from 7,800 to 17,200 feet on the West Buttress of the tallest mountain in North America, Denali. |
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| Ecuador - Antisana and Illiniza Expedition |
| 10 days |
Intermediate |
Ecuadorian Andes |
November - March |
| This expedition is an excellent choice for intermediate climbers wishing to apply their skills to moderately challenging high altitude routes on peaks that are often admired and seldom climbed. |
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| Ecuador - High Altitude Expedition |
| Part 1 - 10 days; Part 2 - 5 days (Chimborazo) |
Beginner & Intermediate |
Ecuadorian Andes |
November - March |
| With two days of skills instruction, those with little technical climbing experience have the opportunity to ascend Cayambe (18,997 ft), Cotopaxi (19,348 ft), and Chimborazo (20,703 ft) by way of classic snow and ice routes. |
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| Ice Climbing (Waterfall) - Sierra and Rockies |
| 2-6 Days (can combine with winter mountaineering) |
Beginner to Advanced |
Eastern Sierra, CA and San Juans, CO; Canadian Rockies, BC and AB, Canada |
December - March |
| Develop a full repertoire of technical and judgmental skills for technical ice climbing. Advanced participants develop leading ability on difficult terrain. |
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| Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn, and the Eiger |
| 4 to 10 Day Programs |
Beginner & Intermediate |
French and Swiss Alps |
June - September |
| AAI offers several different programs for ascending one, two, or all three of peaks in the "Alps Trilogy." |
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| Mt. Rainier Ascent Kautz Glacier |
| 4 Days |
Intermediate |
Mount Rainier, WA |
July |
| This is a 4-day intermediate summit ascent and skills clinic on Mt. Rainier: the highest glaciated volcano in the lower 48 states, also Washington's highest peak. |
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| Single-Pitch Instructor (SPI) Course |
| 3 days for course, 2 days for exam |
Beginner to Advanced |
Red Rock Canyon, Nevada; locations in Washington State |
Year-round |
| The SPI course is designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. |
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| St. Elias Range Alpine Mountaineering and First Ascents |
| 14 Days |
Beginner & Intermediate |
St. Elias Range, AK |
May - August |
| Beginners acquire skills to be a rope team leader on moderate glacial terrain and intermediate climbers review snow and ice techniques, protective systems, and crevasse rescue. All participants attempt first ascents at a beginner or intermediate level. |
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American Alpine Institute (AAI) |
1515 12th Street
Bellingham, WA 98225
info@aai.cc |
© 2007 American Alpine Institute, Ltd. All Rights Reserved
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