Scenic camp with Kedar Dome in the background. Dylan Taylor
Each year, thousands of Hindu pilgrims travel to the source of the Ganges River in the Indian Himalayas where they bathe in the icy headwaters of this holy river to cleanse their spirit. The Ganges pours out from the snout of the Gangotri glacier, which is home to some of the world's great peaks. Many of these mountains, such as Shivling, Thalay Sagar, and Meru peak are flanked by massive granite walls that have challenged some of the greatest climbers for decades. Our objective is to climb Kedar Dome. At 22,402 feet, it is a peak also flanked by huge walls, although on its Northwest flank lies a route of moderate difficulty and makes for a fantastically scenic route.
Indian Pilgrim. Joseph Anderson
Our expedition to this sacred region will take us first into the foothills where we will practice yoga for a day at a yoga ashram. Here we will immerse ourselves in this 5,000-year-old local practice to gain focus. We will then continue deep into the mountains past the headwaters and up onto the enormous Gangotri Glacier. The mountains have so thoroughly inspired the people of this region that many of the peaks have been named after Hindu gods, including Shivling, the Bhagarithi peaks and Kedar Dome. Kedar is in reference to the head of Shiva, the Hindu god of destruction.
Shivling. Dylan Taylor
Day 1: Arrive in Dehli
Most flights arrive from the west in the middle of the night. The easiest thing to do from here is to take a cab directly to your hotel and sleep. We meet at 4:30pm to go over trip logistics and do a gear check before heading to the mountains.
The bustling city of Dehli. Dylan Taylor
Day 2: Train ride to Haridwar and take jeep to Uttarkashi
This is a full day of travel. From Delhi we take the speedy Shatabdi Express Train to the city of Haridwar, which is the last city in India’s central plains. From here we hop onto a jeep that takes us to the Yoga Ashram. The Ashram is at 4,500 feet and is located directly next to the Ganges River. This is an extremely relaxing place for regaining one's wits and centering before heading deeper into the mountains.
Day 3: Yoga practice at the Ashram
Yoga is a 5,000-year-old practice and is known to create increased control over one's self. Citizens of Western culture are incorporating yoga into their lives for reasons ranging from treatment for clinical depression to increasing athletic performance. Studies are finding that yoga increases circulation, releases muscle tension, and increases mental clarity. Here in the birthplace of this ancient practice we have an ideal opportunity to show our respect and benefit personally by partaking in the local custom.
The birthplace of yoga. Joseph Anderson
Day 4: Meet Indian support team and drive to Gangotri
The drive up to Gangotri is an extremely colorful experience. The jeeps follow very windy roads that cling to the side of the deep and dramatic Bhagarithi river valley. Where ever it is possible, the hillsides are terraced and amaranth is farmed, giving a vibrant red contrast to the green pines and brown dwellings. It’s in these valleys that we catch our first glimpses of higher alpine peaks.
The village of Gangotri, at 10,000 feet, is as far as the jeeps go. This is a very small and holy village that still operates in the Hindu tradition. Here we leave the jeeps and start the trek. A well-defined trail leads up valley, and we take this to Chirbasa. After hiking for 9km, we spend the night at Chirbasa (11,808 feet). Chirbasa is surrounded by the subalpine silver birch, which is the last tree we will see before heading further up the valley into the alpine environment.
The start of the trek to basecamp. Dylan Taylor
Day 5: Hike to Bhojbasa
We hike another 5km until we reach Bhojbasa (12,431 feet), our first camp above tree line. This shorter day provides an ideal time to rest and acclimatize.
Bhojbasa. Dylan Taylor
Day 6: Hike to Tabovan
From our camp at 12,431 feet it's a short hike to reach Gaumukh (at 12,760 feet), the source of the holy Ganges and the snout of the glacier. At this point the mountains tower all around us. The Bhagarithi peaks with their massive granite walls tower directly in front of us, and here we begin to ascend the glacier. The terrain is more challenging from here on as we climb steeply to Tabovan, a breathtaking grassy meadow at 14,596 feet, directly below the shear east face of Shivling (21,461 feet).
Bhagarithi. Dylan Taylor
Day 7: Rest Day
This is a much needed day of rest and acclimatization. Tabovan is an ideal place to go on day hikes, rest, read a book, and take in the scenery - a truly a magical place.
Local wildlife. Joseph Anderson
Day 8: Hike to Base of Kedar Dome (Khara Phatthar)
Kedar Dome Base Camp is called Khara Phatthar and is located at 16,000 feet. The trek is not long and the elevation gain is not great, but the air becomes noticeably thinner.
Kedar Dome. Dylan Taylor
Day 9-10: Skills practice at Khara Phattar
At Khara Phattar we will cover the climbing and glacier travel techniques essential to climb the route. These two days also provide an important acclimatization time and include small day hikes and shuttling loads to high camp.
Day 11-12: Shuttle loads and occupy Camp 1
Camp 1 is at 18,700 feet. The climbing is not steep, though the air becomes increasingly thin and the views grow immense. Shivling to the west and The Bhagarithi peaks to the north show off their massive granite walls.
Day 13: Climb to High Camp (Camp 2 - 20,500')
Day 14-16: Summit days
The final climb to the summit is not over challenging terrain, but it is a huge day at very high altitude of 22,402 feet.
Day 17-19: Hike back to Gangotri
Day 20: Travel back to Uttarkashi
Day 21: Travel back to Dehli
Day 22: Arrive back home
