Waterfall ice in Ouray. Michael Powers

Winter Program Structure and Itinerary:

Our comprehensive winter mountaineering program comes in 3 parts:

• Water Ice Climbing (2 days)
• Winter Mountaineering (Core Curriculum) (4 days)
• Backcountry Skiing (2 days)

You can take the parts independently because each functions as a unit and covers specific sets of skills, or you can combine them in an eight-day program to gain comprehensive training in all the skills of the winter and expeditionary environments. Upon completion of the core curriculum and the ice climbing segment of this course, you should be well prepared for winter ascents as well as for expeditions of moderate or intermediate technical challenge on Denali, in the Andes, and in the Himalaya.

Each of the dates and prices listed on this page correspond to the part of the trip that you are currently viewing. Please view the other parts of the trip by following the links above or in the text below.

Water ice provides the medium for what is probably the most exciting winter climbing. Because it is formed from frozen waterfalls and seeps, it is a sport that can be pursued in many parts of the country, even where there are no major mountain ranges. The key to good climbing conditions is simply a flow of water into consistently cold conditions.

Climbers will find that waterfall ice is quite different from alpine ice: it has a higher density because it is formed from water rather than the metamorphosed snow that forms glacier ice; it is colder and more brittle; and it tends to be consistently steep. Those venturing onto waterfall ice will find that they use different tools than they normally use on alpine climbs, integrate specialized techniques into their repertoire of alpine skills, and develop refined rope handling and protective system skills in this unique medium and cold environment.

These programs are offered both to experienced climbers and to those who are just beginning to develop their technical skills. For the introductory course, some previous climbing experience of any type is useful but not required. Technical ice experience is not needed. The curriculum includes: complete coverage of cramponing techniques, ice axe usage, and second hand tool skills; protective systems; and an introduction to the more advanced skills of water ice climbing. The advanced course is for climbers already climbing well on short sections of steep ice and desiring to improve their performance on difficult, sustained pitches and to develop their leading skills on challenging terrain.

The goals of these programs are twofold: first, to challenge you technically as you progress in your personal development of skills and safety procedures on waterfalls; and second, to help you combine your improved technical performance with a “thinking approach” to climbing. That approach is based on the concept that in most situations there is an identifiable, best way to proceed with the application of free climbing technique and the operation of the protective system, and that with such a determination consistently made, you will be able to make successful ascents of increasingly difficult and complex routes.

Because of the technical nature of the climbing and the need to keep active in the cold, all of these programs are presented with a 1:1 or 2:1 client-to-guide ratio and not at higher ratios. Tuition includes the use of group climbing equipment. It does not include transportation, lodging, food costs, or personal equipment. While you can camp during this program, we highly recommend staying in a cabin or lodge to maximize the time and energy that can be devoted to the climbing. Programs can be presented at any time, subject only to limitations of the season and guide availability.

• design concept & selection of ice axes & second hand tools; reverse, classic, steeply drooped, & tubular picks; & crampons;
• design concepts, selection & placement of ice screws & other ice anchors for protection and belays;
• ice axe & second hand tool placement techniques; third tool technique;
• French, German & American cramponing styles & combinations;
• tool and foot progression sequence, staggered versus parallel;
• arrangement & placement of intermediate protection & belay anchors in different types of waterfall ice;
• leading sequence & belay changeover;
• practice leading for those qualified;
• extensive climbing, including continuous pitch ascents;
• Leave No Trace climbing & travel skills.

Climbing in Lee Vining Canyon, Sierra. Seth Hobby

Sierra Nevada, California

The climate of the Sierra Nevada offers the dual benefits of typically clear, blue-skied climbing days and consistently cold temperatures that create great water ice. California's Sierra provide the best waterfall climbing in America's far west, and Lee Vining Canyon and June Lake encompass the highest quality ice in the entire range.

The Lee Vining climbing area is in a deep box canyon below 13,057-foot Mt. Dana. With walls up to 2000 vertical feet on either side, the shadowed reaches of the canyon stay consistently cold and provide ice that is almost always in excellent condition. Offering climbers a very short approach, June Lake forms ice at more moderate angles and is a perfect place for beginners and for more advanced climbers to learn the leading sequence. When the two are combined during a single program, their diversity and quality create one of the finest winter ice playgrounds in America.

Ouray, Colorado

Nestled deep in the San Juans, the old mining town of Ouray is regarded by mountaineers as one of America's premier ice climbing areas. The numerous cliffs, falls, and seeps form waterfall ice of all levels of difficulty. Coupling these qualities with short approaches and the attraction of the town's natural hot springs, Ouray provides an ideal setting for instruction in ice climbing at all skill levels.

The variety of climbs surrounding Ouray is tremendous. Some of the climbs are stepped slabs, ideal for learning and perfecting technique, while others are free standing pillars that test the most accomplished climber. Often easy climbs are right next to difficult ones, allowing us to readily challenge individuals progressing at different rates. There are also multi-pitch climbs in a beautiful alpine setting that require a greater degree of commitment.

Canadian Rockies

Forming the continental divide, the high peaks of the Canadian Rockies form one of North America's most impressive mountain ranges, and with its cold winter climate the area produces the greatest concentration of waterfall climbs in the entire world. The climbs come in all variety: there are numerous, long, multi-pitched classics, but there are even more short, highly technical mixed climbs and steep pillars. There are also excellent teaching areas with ice easy, moderate, and steep angles.

Coley Gentzel

The months of mid-February to early April offer the best climbing conditions. The longer days and slightly warmer temperatures transform the hard, brittle ice into a more forgiving and enjoyable medium. A majority of the climbs are relatively accessible from the Icefields Parkway, the road that links the Jasper and Banff National Parks. Hostels provide economical and comfortable lodging each evening.

Tuition includes the use of group climbing equipment. It does not include transportation, lodging, food costs, or personal equipment. While you can camp during this program, we highly recommend staying in a cabin or lodge to maximize the time and energy that can be devoted to climbing. Programs can be presented at any time, subject only to the limitations of the season and guide availability.

Water Ice Climbing Equipment List

Waterfall Ice Climbing: Cold, Scary, or Quite Contrary? by Coley Gentzel, AAI Program Coordinator and guide.

Selecting Equipment for Waterfall Ice and Mixed Climbing by AAI guide Kurt Hicks.

"The staff provided excellent training for our searach-and-rescue group! This was our third year having your instructors provide training for vertical ice, and our guide were fantastic. The guides were very informative, showing us a few techniques that we plan on implementing in our SAR procedures. They were very patient, and adapted to difficult weather conditions, customized instruction to fit our specific Search and Rescue work, and exceeded my expectations in every way." Mike Leum, La Crescenta, CA

"This was the second course I’ve taken with AAI, and I had a great time. I learned so much, and was able to build my confidence on the ice. AAI's safety standards were outstanding, and I certainly plan to come back to Ouray next year and take the class again." Christy Hansen, Friendswood, TX