Reaching well over 18,000 feet on the divide between Europe and Asia, Mt. Elbrus has become one of the world’s coveted “Seven Summits.” The mountain is heavily glaciated, but its slopes are of moderate angle, making it a suitable climb for those with basic alpine skills and an interest in high altitude climbing. Added attractions on this expedition are the visit to Moscow and cultural experiences in the Caucasus.

Elbrus from Mt. Cheget. The highpoint on the left is the higher west summit. Guy Cotter

The great chain of the Caucasus Mountains rises up between the Black and Caspian Seas as one of the world’s great geological and cultural divides. In addition to forming part of the line dividing Europe from Asia, it also separates Russia in the north from the greater Turkish, Armenian, Azerbaijan, and Arabic lands to the south.

View and download the expedition notes for this trip.

This joint expedition with Adventure Consultants begins with travel to Moscow where we have part of a day for sightseeing. The next day we fly south to Mineralnye Vody and make a three-hour drive to the beautiful Baksan Valley and our base at a lodge in Cheget. We enjoy the spectacular scenery while spending the next four days acclimatizing. To complete our preparations for the summit climb, we hike and climb at elevations ranging from 11,000 to 15,400 feet and spend one night at a hut at 12,300’.

Climbers on Elbrus with the Caucusus behind. Guy Cotter

Having previously climbed to the Pastuhova Rocks, on summit day climbers have the option to take a snow cat to that point to begin the climb. From the rocks we climb directly up on hard snow at a 30 degree angle towards the east summit. The route turns to the west as we approach the saddle between Elbrus’s east and its higher west peak. At the saddle we find remnants of a derelict hut which could not withstand the elements at this altitude.

As dawn breaks, see how far we have come. Guy Cotter

Now only 500 feet from the summit, we ascend a snow slope which brings us part way around the west peak and onto the summit ridge of Elbrus. We enjoy the tremendous sight of hundreds of peaks in the Caucasus reaching far to the north and south, views out towards the Black Sea to the west, and beautiful wooded valleys far below. The visual rewards are a match for the grand moment of reaching the summit of Europe.