 |
|
|
 |
 |
| Length - 10 days |
|
| Cost - $2480 |
|
| Max Ratio - 3:1 or 6:2 |
|
| Capacity - 6 |
|
Location
Ecuadorian Andes |
|
|
 |
| Excellent physical condition; previous experience with crampons and ice axe is required |
|
|
 |
| Feb 22 - Mar 2, 2008 |
| May 16 - May 25, 2008 |
| Jun 6 - Jun 15, 2008 |
| Jun 27 - Jul 6, 2008 |
| Nov 7 - Nov 16, 2008 |
| Nov 14 - Nov 23, 2008 |
| Nov 28 - Dec 7, 2008 |
| Dec 19 - Dec 28, 2008 |
| Jan 9 - Jan 18, 2009 |
| Jan 30 - Feb 8, 2009 |
|
|
|
Ecuador - Antisana and Illiniza Expedition |
|
|
Nearing the summit on Antisana with Cayambe in the background. Dylan Taylor |  |
Program Description
Illiniza Sur and Antisana constitute two of the world's most prized equatorial alpine climbs. Illiniza Sur presents one of the most sharply defined summits in the Northern Andes, and with its easy access in the western cordillera and attractive snow and ice routes, it provides a rare opportunity for a short, high altitude climbing expedition on moderately challenging terrain. Much more remote, Antisana is at the very edge of the country's eastern cordillera and drops its rugged ice and rock ridges abruptly towards the Amazon Basin.
Antisana's position northeast of Cotopaxi National Park and east of several 15,000-foot peaks brings it the deepest annual snowpack of all Ecuadorian peaks. As a result, it supports very large, active glaciers and the greatest equatorial snow and ice mass in the world. The varied routes it offers and the high quality of the snow and ice climbing found on them make this one of the most attractive and rewarding ascents of all the Northern Andes.
This expedition is an excellent choice for intermediate climbers wishing to apply their skills to moderately challenging high altitude routes on peaks that are often admired and seldom climbed. The complexity of the routes also make them a perfect “next step” for those who have learned the fundamental skills of glacier travel and snow and ice climbing, and who now want to further develop their route finding abilities, technical skills, and mountain judgment.
We begin this short expedition with three important days of acclimatization, combining a variety of easy and more strenuous activity between 8500 and 15,729 feet. Quito lies at 9400 feet, so our activity there, in the Quechua Indian market of Otavalo (8500'), and on the rugged Guagua Pichincha (15,670') provides team members with a solid foundation for a gradual and full acclimatization to high altitude.
Ascent of Illiniza Sur (17,268 ft)
A climber standing beneath the summit of Illiniza. Dylan Taylor
On our fourth day in Ecuador we travel south to a hacienda in the central valley, where we can either take a half-day of rest or climb another 15,000-foot peak nearby. The next day we drive as high as we can via a rough track, meet our arrieros and pack animals, and then with our gear on horseback, move to our high camp at a simple hut at approximately 15,000 feet. The following morning we make an easy ascent of the South Face of Illiniza Norte, gaining further acclimatization and enjoying excellent views of our route on Illiniza Sur. During this phase of the expedition, the guides review hazard evaluation, climbing technique, and crevasse rescue skills.
Enjoying great equatorial ice on Illiniza Sur. Michael Powers
On Illiniza Sur we climb the mountain's Northwest Face, a beautiful and interesting route which includes short sections of steep snow and ice on complex glacial terrain, a traverse of a moderate face, an ascent of a couloir, and a climb of an aesthetic ridge line that leads us to the summit. From beginning to end this is a rewarding and photogenic climb, and after our steady exercise at gradually higher altitudes, climbers should be able to deal well with the terrain and the 17,000-foot altitude of this peak. Views from the summit encompass all the major peaks of the eastern and western cordillera.
On to Antisana (18,714 ft)
The North Face of Antisana Sur. Joe Stock
Despite its spectacular appearance and the quality of its climbing, Antisana does not see nearly the traffic that it's neighbors receive because of a combination of two factors. First, it has a moderately technical nature - there are no “walk-up” routes on the mountain -which means that those who attempt this high altitude climb must have intermediate glacier climbing skills. Second, access to the peak has been severely limited by surrounding haciendas in order to protect the wildlife found there as well as their own small herds of livestock.
Leaving our hacienda below the Illinizas, we cross the central valley, then drive up through some of Ecuador's most beautiful Andean foothills, passing through several traditional, small villages. We then cross rolling páramo, gradually gaining altitude as we travel from roughly 9400 to well over 14,000 feet. Here we have excellent opportunities for viewing wildlife, including deer, boar, wild horses, fox, and bird life ranging from hummingbirds to condors.
The glaciers on Antisana are very active, and their configuration is complex and always in the process of evolution. Our choice of route will depend on conditions at the time of our climb, but it will most likely include a combination of moderately angled glacier travel and short, steep sections that require the use of a full range of snow and ice techniques for intermediate terrain. Views from the summit include a rare look at the north face of Cotopaxi and a remarkable, close-up view across a portion of the Amazon Basin. In sum, this expedition to Antisana offers great adventure and high quality alpine climbing in a spectacular and seldom visited equatorial environment.
Flight Information, Equipment, and Itinerary
Flight Info: Your flight should be arranged so that you arrive in Quito on the first scheduled day of the trip. Departures can be made for the day after the last scheduled day. Contact our Travel Coordinator if you need assistance with travel arrangements.
Equipment: Download the equipment list for this program.
Itinerary: Download the itinerary .
Program Cost Inclusions and Exclusions
Inclusions: Lodging in hotels, haciendas, huts, and tents on a shared basis (available on a private basis by special arrangement, subject to availability, and at added cost); meals while in the mountains; group cooking equipment; admissions to museums and national parks; group climbing equipment; transportation during trip.
Exclusions: Airfare; personal equipment; meals except while climbing; gratuities to guides; government and airport taxes; inoculations; personal insurance; excess baggage.
Client Comments for this course
"Our guides were extremely knowledgeable about mountaineering, geology, geography, Ecuadorian culture, and the Spanish language. They were so helpful!" Matt Peak, Pasadena, CA
Other Programs in Ecuador
The Illiniza and Antisana Expedition described above is for climbers with skills beyond the basic level of snow and ice climbing. If you are more interested in moderate mountaineering ascents in Ecuador, you may want to read about our 15-day Ecuador High Altitude Expedition which is suitable for beginning as well as experienced mountaineers. Our El Atlar Expedition may be of interest to climbers looking for other intermediate level challenges on a remote and rarely climbed Ecuadorian peak. See the program pages for more details on each of these expeditions.
|
American Alpine Institute (AAI) |
1515 12th Street
Bellingham, WA 98225
info@aai.cc |
© 2007 American Alpine Institute, Ltd. All Rights Reserved
|
