Southwest China and eastern Tibet have one of the largest concentrations of the world's remaining unclimbed mountains. Ranges of young, sharply etched peaks with beautiful rock faces and pristine glaciers still await their first exploration. This region is called Kham by its Tibetan inhabitants, and it was only recently opened by the Chinese government to outside visitors.
An incredible peak near Genyen, the second highest in the Shaluli Shan mountain Range, was
climbed first in 2007 from the Southeast. It still awaits it's first ascent from the west side. Liu Shuan
Monks of the Kangding Monastery during their morning sutras. Guy Sgan Cohen
Building on the accomplishments and experience from several explorations to the area in the past three years - including the second ascent of the West Ridge of Reddomaine in October 2006 - we are again leading expeditions into two sub-ranges of the Hengdaun Mountain Range for the 2007 season. This range stretches from northern Myanmar along Tibet's eastern border to the northern part of China’s Sichuan Province. Both trips include significant interaction with both Chinese and Tibetan cultures, several days of acclimatization while trekking, and opportunities to make first ascents. Our experiences will include remote Tibetan villages and monasteries, rhododendron and holly forests, pristine sub-alpine and alpine zones, and a little-explored realm of glaciers and granite peaks.
Having honed several seasons of good information on suitable objectives, this year’s expeditions have excellent chances of making significant first ascents of major high altitude peaks. This opportunity will not be around for long.
Trip #1 - Genyen Area First Ascents
23 days – Unclimbed peaks between 18,000 and 20,000 feet
The massive bulk of Genyen (20,350') dominating the landscape of Western Sichuan,
is considered a holy mountain by Tibetan Buddhists. Liu Shuan
On our first expedition we will be exploring the remote Shaluli Shan Range known for its highest peak, Genyen Feng at 6204 meters (20,350 feet). After arriving in Chengdu, we will spend three days acclimatizing and traveling to the small town of Litang, one of the highest cities in the world at just under 14,000 feet. This town has clearly retained its Tibetan roots where tall fur hats and crimson monk robes are still standard fare. We then drive a short distance to the small village of Lamaya, where we load our gear on horses and trek for two days across grasslands and small remote villages to the base of Genyen and the striking Lengo Monastery, perched high among granite cliffs. We establish a comfortable base camp up valley and dedicate twelve days to exploring and making first ascents of up to two unclimbed peaks. Our staff will include two AAI guides, a base camp cook, and translator/liaison officer.
The view from across the valley of one of our possible climbing
objectives. The route has been explored by AAI staff up to the high
col on the right hand ridge. Aidan Loehr |
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The view of the northwest side of Genyen, and the valley where our
base camp will be located. Aidan Loehr
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From information and first hand experience from an exploratory trip in 2006, we have narrowed our climbing objectives down to four peaks, all unclimbed and all accessible from a single base camp in the lush central valley. The climbing on two of the peaks appear quite moderate. The other two will range from moderate to very challenging climbing on mixed terrain. The second highest peak in the range will likely be the focus of our efforts. This route was partially climbed in 2006 by AAI staff on the first recorded attempt. The weather did not cooperate, but the terrain proved doable. A highly crevassed glacier must be crossed where we will put in a high camp below the col. The climb to the col will involve steep snow up to 60 degrees with two or three rock steps up to mid 5th class. Once the col has been attained, we anticipate steep and exposed snow climbing for about 1800 feet to the tiny sharp summit. (Update: this peak recieved its first ascent in 2007 from the other side)
Two other peaks stand side by side high above the central valley. These peaks could be climbed from a single high camp and appear to be quite moderate. There are no recorded climbing expeditions in this cirque.
Yet another pyramidal peak just over 19,000 feet stands alone at the end of a long valley flanked on one side by a jagged ridge of granite spires. The snowy peak appears to be a great objective, but nothing is known yet of the lower third of the mountain. The upper two thirds looks moderately steep with very few big obstacles. See the slideshow at the top of this page for a photo of this peak.
There are few places in the world where one can experience this type of exploration among pristine mountains and isolated cultures. Hardy travelers with solid alpine climbing skills will find a very rewarding experience attempting first ascents in this remote corner of China.
One of the small villages on the approach to Genyen. We pass two villages that can only be accessed by horse or by foot. Liu Shuan
Trip #2 - Dogonomba Expedition
17 days – First ascent of Dogonomba or south ridge of Reddomaine
The second trip of 2007 will be AAI’s fourth expedition exploring the Daxue Shan meaning “big snow mountains.” This range is famous for the towering pyramid of Minya Konka, southwest China's highest peak at 24,790 feet (7556 meters). From Chengdu, we will drive to the Tibetan town of Kangding. On our trek into the heart of the range, we'll pass several unclimbed 16,000 to 19,000-foot peaks, and our plan is to make the first ascent of 19,550-foot Dogonomba, or the first ascent (third overall ascent) of the south ridge of 20,050-foot Reddomaine. Approaches are via open sub-alpine terrain and beautiful glacier-carved valleys. Our route choices will first involve negotiating the huge crevasses spanning the pocket glacier leading to the col between Dogonomba and Reddomaine. From the col, the route to the summit will be 2000-2500 feet of steep snow and ice on an exposed ridge. Because it is still untouched terrain, we will need to be prepared for potentially challenging climbing.
The northwest face of Dogonomba from high camp. Andy Bourne
Little Gongga as it is known by locals, is one of the spectacular peaks we pass on
the approach to Reddomaine and Dogonomba. Andy Bourne
The lower glacier of Dogonomba on an exploratory climb in 2005. Andy Bourne
The northwest face of Dogonomba and south ridge of Reddomaine viewed from the valley bottom. Andy Bourne
As with the journey to Genyen, both programs will be amidst ancient traditional cultures, beautiful scenery, and pristine mountain landscapes that have barely been visited. Join us for a truly exploratory adventure.
Photos by Guy Sgan Cohen
Supporting the Khampa Tibetans
This magical place deserves our utmost respect and its inhabitants our utmost support in keeping true to their local customs, traditions, and language, to which the growing presence of non-Tibetans poses a challenge. In recognition of this fact, a donation will be made from the trip profits to the Lengo Monastery, the Litang Monastery and KhamAid, all of which have programs involving the local children in the preservation of their Tibetan traditions. For more information visit www.khamaid.org.
Young monks of the Litang Monastery. Aidan Loehr
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