Slideshow

Itinerary

Equipment List

Dispatches

Second Summits

Extras

High on the North Ridge of Mt. Baker. Photo by Alasdair Turner

This is an intensive course providing comprehensive instruction in the problems met and skills required on difficult alpine ascents. The curriculum consists of a review of fundamental snow and ice climbing skills and detailed treatment of all intermediate and advanced techniques and state-of-the-art climbing methods. National Accreditation Reviewers have described the program as “probably the most comprehensive, progressive, and intense course of its type in the world,” and it has been particularly noted for its emphasis on teaching climbers to lead. The entire course is spent on glaciers and a great deal of practice climbing is done each day. Instruction is given on Mt. Baker which has eighteen glaciers and routes of all technical standards.

The Cascade Range is the principal training ground in America for those planning Alaskan, Andean, and Himalayan ascents because the ice climbing can be done in the mild and good weather months of summer, and because during that period one can climb on a complete range of snow and ice types, each of which requires adjustment in climbing technique and protective systems. Instruction is given on the Coleman Glacier of Mt. Baker, considered the top glacial training ground in the United States. The course concludes with a major two-day ascent of Baker on which team members deal with logistics, challenging climbing, the operation of a wide range of protective systems, and route finding. Upon completion of this program participants should be technically prepared to make ascents of significantly difficult alpine and snow routes.

Climbers on an Alpine Ice Course practice leading on steep ground.

Participants are instructed in a highly refined, hybrid ice climbing technique that combines the most effective aspects of American, German, and French approaches to snow and ice. Groups are very small and there is flexibility in emphasis according to individual interest & need. The curriculum includes:

• design concepts, performance, and selection of ice axes & technical tools
• proper choice between and application of the primary ice axe positions: piolet canne, panne, manche, poignard, ramasse, rampe, ancre, and traction
• choice between and application of American, French, and German cramponing techniques
• proper selection and placement of ice screws, snow flukes & pickets for belays and intermediate protection
• the uses of mechanical belay devices in alpine climbing
• specialized designs and uses of alpine and technical tools in high angle climbing
• free climbing technique on overhanging ice
• setting up and operating hanging belays
• the uses of prusiks
• crevasse rescue techniques: self-rescue, pulley systems, and pulley system combinations
• the use of skiing glissades for ease and speed of descent
• glacial structure and movement: using large external landforms to predict inner glacial structures and hence the difficulties and hazards of a potential route
• evaluation of the objective hazards of avalanche, rock fall, and ice fall
• integration of specific skills with the general goals of efficient, safe, and self-dependent climbing
• Leave No Trace travel, camping, & climbing

A climber practicing making ice anchors in the Coleman Glacier icefall, Mount Baker.

As this program progresses, the climber-to-guide ratio decreases to 2:1, allowing us to accommodate participants who progress at different rates and wish to emphasize different levels of technical difficulty. The complete course is six days long and is normally taken as a unit, but the three segments can be taken separately. Applicants should have alpine mountaineering experience. Tuition includes the provision of group climbing equipment.

SEGMENT 1: TWO-DAY FIELD SEMINAR

Two-mile hike to base camp adjoining the Coleman Glacier; one day spent in technical instruction & practice covering all climbing and belaying skills used on snow in its various forms; one day spent on climbing skills used on ice in its various forms. Climbing in groups of three to eight with one instructor.

SEGMENT 2: TWO-DAY PRACTICUM

Protective systems for ice climbing; leading sequence; application of ice climbing skills to difficult terrain; closely supervised technical climbing in an icefall. Glacial structures, hazard evaluation, principles of glacier travel, crevasse rescue. Route finding problems & solutions. Climbing & instruction in groups of two, three, or four with one instructor.

SEGMENT 3: ASCENT OF A MAJOR ALPINE ROUTE

A two-day climb on which team members deal with logistics, challenging free climbing, the operation of a wide range of protective systems, & route finding. Routes are chosen for each rope team according to the proficiency demonstrated by the participants during the Seminar & Practicum. Most commonly they are Mt. Baker via the Roosevelt Headwall, North Ridge, Roman Mustache, or the 2500-foot Coleman Headwall. Easier routes are climbed when appropriate for conditions. Ascents are made with a maximum of two climbers per guide.

FOLLOW-UP CLIMBS & SPECIAL SESSIONS

This program can be immediately followed by challenging 2 and 3-day climbs, or 4 to 10-day climbing trips in the Cascades. Participants will also be qualified to join many AAI expeditions abroad. A similar program is offered each summer in Bolivia's Cordillera Real where we make a series of ascents of 18,000 to 21,000-foot peaks. From July through September AAI also presents an advanced program in the French Alps.

Women's Alpine Ice Program Dates

Rappelling down a serac in one of Mt Baker's massive icefalls. Keith Gunnar

"My guide was hands-down the best guide I have ever encountered. He quickly ascertained our experience level, interests, and expectations for the course, then catered to those, ensuring that we focused on those skills we needed most." Mary Ellen Potter, Bellevue, WA

"All of the guides were positive and patient, and fostered a 'can do' learning environment. In this environment, my confidence and technique really improved." Carol Masheter, Salt Lake City, UT

"My guide exceeded my expectations. He quickly assessed my skills and we focused on reviewing and improving them. With his guidance and suggestions, I showed a lot of improvement in a couple of days, culminating in a great day on the North Ridge of Mt. Baker."John Hornbacker, Seattle, WA